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New Orleans, Orleans County, Louisiana
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Special correspondence from Dublin on March 31, 1878, details a visit to Castle Comer, the Wandesford estate linked to the Ormond family, describing its hall, gardens, conservatory, and surroundings. Includes excursions to fortified barracks, Kilkenny Castle, the Cave of Dunmore, and the ruins of Kells colleges.
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AN INSIDE VIEW OF THE "CASTLE"
OF AN IRISH GENTLEMAN.
Kilkenny and Its Castle—The Home of the Ormonds—The Colleges of Kells—The Cave of Dunmore.
[Special Correspondence of the Democrat.]
DUBLIN, March 31, 1878.
After a pleasant trip by rail of a few hours we reach Athy, an unattractive town. Here taking a jaunting car we proceeded on our way to
CASTLE COMER,
a distance of twelve miles, over a splendid macadamized road, hard and smooth as marble and kept in most thorough repair. The country on each side seemed like one vast garden, brilliant with the verdure of early spring, and exhibiting a degree of skillful cultivation not seen in the northern and western parts of the island. Timber being scarce, a great deal of attention is given to its growth; every hill and spot of ground unsuitable to tillage is planted in "forests," which give to the scenery a charming variety and contrast to the broad fields and fertile valleys. At last we reach the village of Castle Comer, one of the most romantic in Ireland, where
"smiling spring its earliest visit pays and
parting summer's lingering bloom delays."
No Goldsmith has immortalized its beauty, and being out of the usual route of tourists it must remain in comparative obscurity. It is on the estate of the Wandesford family, a cadet branch of the great house of Ormond, so celebrated in English and Irish history. The old castle, which stood on the crest of a hill, was destroyed during the stormy times of '98.
THE PRESENT "HALL,"
a very spacious, handsome building, of no particular order of architecture, is situated on a plain at the base. Nothing can exceed the beauty of its location, in the midst of a lawn, sheltered on one side by a range of hills wooded to their crest, and terminated on the other by the Ardea river, a branch of the Nore. In front flowed a pretty stream, spanned by a rustic bridge, over which we passed to the grand entrance. On the right of the hall are the drawing-rooms, dining-room and library; these are finely finished, exquisitely furnished and well lighted by windows extending from floor almost to ceiling. There are some gems of art in painting and statuary, all light and graceful, in perfect keeping with the whole appearance of the rest of the hall. Ascending the staircase we find the rooms ranged in suits on each side of a fine gallery, at right angles to the lower entrance hall—each suit consisting of three apartments, parlor, bed-room and dressing-room. The bed-hangings are of satin, the mantels and tables are ornamented with rare vases, bronzes and statuettes. Passing down and out to the rear of the building, we enter an extensive conservatory. Some Seville orange trees first attracted my attention; for the moment I was again in Louisiana. The number and variety of the plants are quite large, including specimens from every portion of the globe. Opening out from this is
THE
"GYMNASIUM."
and barely visible in the distance stands the "laundry." Across the public road, up a laurel walk, is the square-pewed old church, whose vaults contain the dust of the Wandesford family. There are numerous tablets between the windows, and one very beautiful monument to the memory of Lady Anne Ormond. A few rods from the church is the "domain." It is separated from the lawn of the "Hall" by the road, but connected by a tunnel beneath it. Had Shenstone seen this place he would have been in raptures, for Nature and Art seem to vie in rendering it
"A spot of earth supremely blest.
A brighter, sweeter spot than all the rest."
The river winds through it for three miles; from its banks the ground rises gradually at first, then suddenly shoots upward into a bold hill, whose summit is adorned with an artificial lake of considerable size. From this spot the view is extensive and beautiful beyond description. A well-stocked deer park, kitchen garden and farmyard adjoin the domain. Turning from these we again reach the road and pass on to the bridge; the river seen from this point has quite a remarkable appearance deep and tranquil before passing beneath the structure, its bed on the other side seems to have been elevated by some convulsion of nature, so that the water frets and foams over the rocky bottom. The village is at the intersection of two great roads, and contains several good houses, commodious stores and an excellent hotel, at which we will remain for some days. To-day we went to see
THE BARRACKS,
which are situated on a commanding eminence. They are strongly fortified and garrisoned. The next point of interest was
KILKENNY,
distant ten miles; turning a little aside we visited a "holy well," once celebrated, but not much resorted to since the following accident: A woman, having a very cross child, was advised to dip it seven times in the well, and to say at each immersion, "God stop the bawling." She did so; but, on drawing it up the last time, struck its head against a projecting stone. It is needless to add her prayer was answered. Farther on is
THE
"CAVE OF DUNMORE."
Its entrance would not give promise of anything remarkable; but those who have penetrated its windings speak of the great extent and intricacy of its passages, sometimes so low as to render it necessary to crawl, and again widening into vast galleries. There is a boundary, however, which none dare pass, a clear stream said to be haunted by the "Good People," a species of elves capable of very mischievous pranks, and held in great awe by the superstitious. Kilkenny, on the Nore, is a considerable town, boasting of one of the oldest and finest cathedrals on the island.
Its castle,
THE HOME OF THE ORMONDS,
is a grand old pile, counting centuries as its age, but still strong and massive, bearing no sign of decay. It was quite a disappointment not being permitted to see the interior. Strangers are not taken through it when the family is home, although during their absence, most of the year on the Continent, visitors are freely admitted. Having some spare time we drove to Kells, once the seat of celebrated colleges and schools, filled with students from all parts of Europe, Italy not excepted. Nine ruined castles remain, mute witnesses of vanished greatness, silent sentinels warning of Time's destroying power.
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Foreign News Details
Primary Location
Castle Comer, Ireland
Event Date
March 31, 1878
Key Persons
Event Details
Description of a journey from Athy to Castle Comer, detailing the estate's hall, rooms, conservatory, gymnasium, church, domain with river, deer park, and views. Visits to barracks, a holy well, Cave of Dunmore, Kilkenny with its cathedral and Ormond castle, and Kells with ruined colleges and castles.