The Lamar Register

Velvet is the fabric par excellence for late winter and early spring wear, and when one says velvet nowadays one means always chiffon velvet.

The discovery of this particular weave accounts almost altogether for the material's popularity, for the velvets of other days, although deep and rich in tone and pile and with beautiful sheen, lacked lightness and softness and suppleness which are required in all but gowns of state.

A beautiful Paris model which has just seen the light is developed in the much sought after velvet, and on the lines of the quite as popular Redingote model. It is fashioned of reseda chiffon velvet, with a skirt and waistcoat of satin the same shade, embroidered with reseda silk, chenille and silver threads.

The Redingote as a far back revival attracts much attention from modistes and women who dress, but other long coat effects are shown. The Louis coats are very popular, with their many modifications, the Directoire, and the Russian tunic. But the long coat has not and it seems now can not throw the ever popular bolero into the shade. As many boleros, if not more, are shown now than ever.

Among the novelties in midwinter coats are double faced cloths, showing a plain color on the outside and a striking plaid on the under surface. These coats are shown in the popular shades of brown, with the under side brown, green and red.

For young girls bright red coats are very smart. A charming model is a brilliant scarlet, cut in sacque shape, showing the Inverness cape with a modification, that is, the cape comes over the shoulder and sleeves only and not in front. It is faced with black cloth and has a stand up military collar lined with the same. The sides of the cape and the cuffs are set off by gold buttons, which are also used to fasten the double breasted coat itself. The sleeves are gathered full into black broadcloth cuffs. Except in very stormy weather this coat if turned back above the bust line in the form of revers, and the contrast between the black and red is extremely effective. Another novel coat is made of tan colored cloth trimmed with embroidery and braid, showing the popular brown shades mixed with gold.

Coats for Girls.

The genuine Louis or Directoire coat is considered too old for a girl under 18, and, as a matter of fact, demands a well developed and matured figure; but the idea of the silk coat worn with skirt of mousseline, chiffon, etc., is carried out in a jaunty bolero of silk worn over a sheer blouse and skirt house and dinner wear; and occasionally one does see a short full basqued little coat of silk even upon the young girl, though in this case the coat is usually modified by the addition of a girdle or a corded girdle line, over which the coat blouses, or in some other girlish fashion.

A wonderfully dainty little model sent over from Paris for an 18-year-old girl had a little bloused coat with girdle and full short basques made from white taffeta flowered in minute pink and green rose sprays. The coat opened in front over a blouse front of white mousseline and real Valenciennes, and the full skirt was of white mousseline inset with Valenciennes and painted in water color with interlacing garlands of roses and leaves in harmony with the design in the flowered coat.

Skirts Are Full and Soft.

Skirts are full and soft, with many tucks, shirred and corded flounces, and circular flounces set on, the fullness necessitating a support in some invisible way. This, as a rule, is given by a band of pliable princess haircloth in the drop skirt.

Most of the new sleeve models are puffs to the elbow; the lower arm, however, is very variously treated; it just depends on the designer's fancy. By far the larger number, both of costume and separate waists, have elbow sleeves, with frill or cuff en suite, and lace or chiffon frills; if the sleeve is carried to the wrist it must be in a long cuff, more or less decorative, according to the material and purpose of the garment.

Reseda green cloth with trimmings of green velvet and green braid.

Embroidered Ribbon.

A new fad is being introduced which promises to be popular. It is that of using embroidered neck pieces, belts and stocks as well as for various kinds of fancy work such as pillow ruffles, etc. The embroidery is done in conventional design in floss silk to contrast with the ribbon. No design is needed, the embroidery being worked over scrim which is placed over the ribbon. When the work is entirely completed, the threads of the scrim running both ways, are withdrawn, and the embroidered pattern is left on the ribbon. The same process is being applied to shirt waists of plain white material, the embroidery in this case being done in linen floss, and used on the front box pleat, the shoulder pieces and the cuffs of the waist. In a waist where the back comes over the shoulders in yoke effect, a row of embroidery finishes the shoulder piece where it joins the front.

Charming Blouse Suit.

As the small girl develops her ideas of fashion for herself she desires frocks a little different from her associates, and something decidedly new and becoming. Here is a suggestion for a blouse suit to be made in one of the fetching new wool fabrics. The linen collar and scarf, tied four-in-hand, are a pleasing finish to the neck.

A New Coiffure.

Here is a "wrinkle" for those who boast a sufficient quantity of hair to make a good, thick and long plait.

Divide your locks into two equal halves and make a couple of plaits; bring one, up toward the front round each side of the head, crossing them cleverly in front, and this will not be perceived; the ends will tuck under at the sides of the head and the plait that is visible across the brow will appear to be one long plait simply. Of course, for a really fashionable coiffure this is not adequate; the hair-dressers when they ordain the fashion have too keen an eye to business to introduce a simple style that can be easily accomplished by the wearer and the new method of hairdressing demands not only enough hair to make the full plait coronet-shape above the forehead, but also enough to turn back over a pompadour front and to build into coils or curls behind. Only it is possible to combine the fashionable detail with one's own common sense and to make the plait alone suffice, when one has enough hair to construct this becoming coronet.

Latest in Trimmings.

New trimmings are many this season and are being rapidly shown. Paillette trimmings in delicate colors and in opalescent tints have received much favor. In pale blue, pink or gray they have the same iridescence as the opaline tints and are very rich in massed effects.

Chenille fringe is again being made much of this season for trimmings, especially for evening coats and capes. They come in simple and elaborate styles, and no more beautiful or favored garniture could be chosen.

Heavy crochet trimmings are seen on the newest models of cloth gowns, with crocheted pendants to match. The crocheted trimmings are also seen on silk and velvet dresses.

Fancy stitching is revived again—if it has ever died. Some of the designs are very intricate, and padding is used at times, to make the design stand out better.

Artistic Chiffon Scarfs.

The chiffon scarfs which a young woman artist in this town is painting this winter are exquisite. Some of the patterns show Moorish or Japanese designs, and others flowers in naturalistic style. Made of two yards of chiffon, each is painted from an original design. These scarfs are to be worn around the neck with the ends either fastened in front or thrown over the right shoulder. A pale yellow one recently finished and showing a design of white blossoms, is one of the most effective.

Grape Apples.

Core sound apples and pare, but leave three narrow bands of peel, to help keep them in shape. Put unfermented grape juice on the stove to boil, and if not sweet enough add sugar to taste. Put in the apples and simmer till tender, then lift carefully to a glass dish and boil the juice down till thick and pour over the apples. Serve cold with whipped cream. They are delicious and will go right to the spot every time.

Useful Natty Nets.

Golden halos of silken hair are not to be excelled as beautifiers for pretty faces, but the wise girl will incase her bun in a net these windy days. Of course the revival of the net has not met with great favor among those who have lovely hair, but the girl with scanty locks who likes to do them up loosely and the young person with flying ends and a longing for neatness, alike find great comfort in the return of the hair net.