The Omaha Guide

The Omaha Guide

THE ROMANCE OF PERFUME
When Wise Men sought a fitting gift to carry to a Child born in Bethlehem of Judea they chose, besides gold, two perfumes- frankincense and myrrh - esteemed by them to be equally precious Both are aromatic gums or resins that exude from certain trees of Arabia or vicinity and give out perfume when burned. The ascending smoke or incense from swaying censer is said to signify the prayers of saints,

From the most ancient times sweet odors have been cherished. We read of garments "smelling of myrrh, aloes and cassia," of "camels bearing spicery and balm and myrrh," of "golden vials full of odors."

All through the passing centuries the allure of perfume has remained constant, while the oils and essence that go into its making carry one's thoughts to Oriental gardens, to forests of balsam and to acres of sweet-smelling flowers. What a bouquet of delightful odors are assembled in the fragrant and spicy ingredients of perfume! Oil of rosemary and of bergamot. Sandalwood from redolent East Indian trees. Bay leaves and orris root, patchouli, another gift from East Indian vegetation. Spirits of lavender flowers, acacia extract, essence of violets and tuberose, cloves, almond oil and cinnamon.

These are but a few of the odorous and subtle ingredients of various perfumes. Musk, a powdery substance obtained from the musk deer, was formerly much used to hold floral odors but it is no longer considered as desirable as other agents. Its stronger odor lingers after the more fragile and sweeter scents have vanished and to many persons the heavy odor of musk is unpleasant.

Alcohol and benzoin are more often employed now for this purpose, also ambergris, a substance obtained from the intestines of whales, but ambergris also is used much less than formerly.

Probably there is no perfume more popular than violet extract, especially the Parma violet. Tons of the flowers were formerly needed for an ounce of violet oil. Now chemists have succeeded in producing this delightful odor synthetically.

A similar process is used in the manufacture of rose oil. A drop of attar of roses used to mean the essence from a whole garden of roses. Now chemists have learned how to produce the lovely rose fragrance in their laboratories.

Two other exquisite perfumes, lily of the valley and lilac are now both made synthetically. Otherwise their fragrance is too elusive to catch.

At one time it was the fashion for women to adopt a particular scent and then cling to it indefinitely. Now. however, the scent is likely to change with the mood and occupation of the wearer. There is even a preparation suggestive of leather and horses, presumably to be used at the races or the hunt.

"What scent will you wear to-night, Madame?" asks a Chinese servant of her mistress. indicating that the Orientals are quite as discriminating as people of the Western world.

The use of perfume is an art sometimes a neglected art The strong or too much perfume is worse than none. It should be used as an addition to a perfect toilette, leaving just a clinging memory of the wearer.

A certain Marquis Frangipani, experimenting with the West Indian red jasmine. produced a perfume which bears his name. And the names of perfumes are often most intriguing. Naturally there are all the sweet-smelling flower odors - gardenia, magnolia, verbena, violet, lilac, rose heliotrope. But sophisticated Parisians love to use the name of their own gay city -Evening in Paris or just Paris.

Other names are Tryst, Glamour, Secret, Crepe de Chine. L'Heure Bleue, Styx, L'Origan, Circe, Toujours Ami, Royale Bouquet, Chypre -the list is long and delightful to read though sometimes difficult to pronounce. But they bring with them suggestions of youth and gaiety and romance, of the spirit of gay Paris or just hints of old- fashioned gardens.

So popular is perfume that many high-class shops now have a "Parfumerie." a lovely alcove of crystal and mirrors given over to the display of perfumes as well as the exquisitely tinted glass bottles used to contain them. "Pour Monsieur" one may see in a corner of these alcoves, with lilac or Eau de Cologne prominent, But though men seldom use scent they certainly are connoisseurs on the subject, fastidious though appreciative of the best, preferring the more subtle odors to the heavier ones.

Violet scented cigarettes are obtainable. the smoke of which mingles the perfume of the flowers with the pungent odor of fine tobacco. The tobacco odor alone would be more pleasing to most users.

From New England way comes a unique odor locked in bayberry candles. When these gray-green wax candles are lighted a sweetly penetrating scent is liberated. bringing thoughts of New England woods and sea breezes from that rock-bound coast. These candles are made from wax that forms on the berries of the bayberry tree which grows in the Old Bay State and elsewhere. Bay rum also is. obtained by distilling rum with the leaves of the tree.

From these same New England states come the balsam fir pillows. with the exhilarating aroma of the Northern woods. The combined fragrance of these pillows and the smoke of the bayberry candles is a delightful addition to a glowing fireplace filled with hickory knots and pine cones.

And what would Christmas be without the woodsy odors of hemlock, cedar and pine so long associated with that season?

Emerson must have loved fragrance. "Happiness," he says, "is a perfume which you cannot pour on others without getting a few drops on yourself."