The New Hampshire Gazette And General Advertiser

FROM THE UNIVERSAL ASYLUM.

ON DRINKING HEALTHS

Formal Introductions, and that distant reserve of the Sexes, towards each other, so remarkably prevalent in AMERICA.

The American Revolution, among other consequences, had nearly extirpated several embarrassing English customs, and substituted in their place, the easy and elegant simplicity of the French manners; but the intercourse with England returning, and our country being crowded with her formal sons, their customs are insensibly stealing upon us. At many tables, the company seem at a loss, whether to make the round with "your health, Sir,--your health, Madam,"whether to rest at the health of the lady of the house-or whether to disturb any one with this foolish ceremony, which is condemned even by those who practice it; but why should we rest in doubt to banish a custom which our reason condemns!

As a nation, we ought to form some national customs, and not be eternally subservient to those-which prevail abroad. A few leading men in each town, by setting the example, might effectually destroy this health drinking custom.

The table customs of France are worthy of imitation. for they are (if I may use the expression) refined into rural ease and simplicity, the essence of true politeness. The most agreeable and happy hours of the gay lives of the French, are spent in a large circle, nearly divided by each sex. While we are cloyed with ceremony and form, they enjoy the rich luxury of perfect freedom and social ease. If the company is composed of both sexes, each gentleman places himself between two ladies--every one has his glass, a bottle of claret, and a decanter of water, and they drink or not as they feel disposed -the soup and a rich variety pass round-and the lady of the house pays as little attention to her guests, as if she was one of the number; every gentleman, for his situation, is attentive only to the two ladies, one on each side of him. whom custom has committed to his charge; and, instead of formal harangues and abstruse debates, (too common on such occasions in America) the position of the females in France imposes a barrier between the males, and divides the conversation into a lively vein of pleasantry; but the ladies of America generally huddle together in a body, and the conversation is confined to the distinct sexes; it is well the prevalence of this custom does not carry their scruples so far, as to assign separate tables to the ladies and gentlemen.

In America, a stranger is often introduced into a room of new faces, and separately to each individual; his personal situation, on this occasion, is extremely awkward and embarrassing. and it never fails to fill a Continental European with disgust. in France, a stranger is introduced to a company collectively-and, in a few minutes, he becomes a member of the company at large, entirely at his ease with all around him : And if his business or inclination leads him to withdraw, he steals off softly and unnoticed.

In America, we keep up the line of separation between the sexes,even after dinner ; the ladies, at a certain signal,file off to a separate room,when the men unbend in their conversation,as if a weight had been removed from them. In France, so much of the happiness of the people depends on the the mutual intercourse between the sexes, that they rise together, and retire into another room, to drink coffee, and divert themselves in the most agreeable manner.