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Story July 20, 1877

Springfield Weekly Republican

Springfield, Hampden County, Massachusetts

What is this article about?

Historical overview of Mount Toby in Massachusetts, from its 1674 Native American land purchase to 1870s development as a scenic park with panoramic views, carriage roads, and picnic facilities opposite Deerfield and Greenfield.

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MOUNT TOBY.

Its Early History-A Telescopic View of the Landscapes from its Top-The Attractions for Picnics.

The history of this mount can be traced back as far as 1674, at which time the "Worshipful Mayor Pynchon purchased of Mettawompe, alias Nattawassawett, ye Indian, for himself and in behalf of other Indians, viz.: Wadamummin, Squiskheag and Sunk Kamamachue," the territory now comprising the towns of Sunderland and Leverett, the greater part of Montague and a part of Wendell, the line extending from Mohawk brook at the northern corner of Hadley up the Connecticut river to the mouth of Little brook opposite the mouth of the Deerfield river and then out into "ye woods six miles eastward from ye great river Quinneticott." The price paid was "30 fathom of wampum and several other small things to him and them in hand paid and fully secured by John Pynchon of Springfield, in ye behalf and upon ye account of Robert Boltwood, John Hubbird, Joseph Kellogg and Thomas Dickinson of Hadley."

One week later, "this 17th of April, 1674, Squiskheag came and acknowledged the sale of ye land mentioned on ye other side, sold by Mettawompe, and doth hereby confirm ye sale thereof, having received part of ye pay, viz.: 30 fathom." This purchase included the region occupied by Mt Toby, which, with its lesser peaks of "Ox Hill" and "Cascades," its "Cave," "Bear's Den Ledge" and other attractions, is now known as Sunderland Park, being situated on the east side of the Connecticut river, nearly opposite the towns of Deerfield and Greenfield.

For nearly two centuries after the sale above described, Mt Toby calmly and quietly looked down on miles of valleys and numbers of other mountains, undisturbed save by the shot of the huntsman's guns. Several years ago the faculty of Amherst college discovered the advantages of Mt Toby, erected a "tree-ladder," and every year brought their students there, but no definite step was taken toward opening the place for general travel until 1870 or 1871, although in 1855 Dr Edward Hitchcock in the "Geology" furnished by Dr J. G. Holland for his History of Western Massachusetts says: "Let us perch upon the highest pile of sand-stone in all Massachusetts, Mt Toby, or as it was formerly called, Mt Mettawompe, which is upon the boundary between the towns of Sunderland and Leverett: here we rest our feet upon the highest mount in the Connecticut valley, 1150 feet above the river and 1250 above the level of the ocean, and gain a view 200 miles north and south and 100 miles east and west, overlooking all mountains lying near."

In 1870 or 1871 Mr R. L. Goss of Montague City purchased the mountain for the lumber and wood which grew on it. He cut a few hundred cords of wood, and then, realizing the very excellent natural advantages possessed by the "Park" as a resort for summer visitors, ceased cutting and destroying its beauties, and resolved to open up the place. He built a fine carriage road from the base to the summit, a distance of two miles, a picturesque pathway between the same points, distance one and a half miles, a tower 70 feet high on the summit, and a beautiful picnic ground in a grove at the foot. The pathway leads by Roaring brook, the cascades-where the clear water of Roaring brook tumbles over a series of precipices from 10 to 50 feet high-by Bear's den ledge, over Ox hill and serpentinely through beautiful woods to the top. The view from the top is unsurpassed. Far as the eye can reach can be seen sister mountains and peaks which raise their heads in greeting across the woody valleys and the sleeping towns which lie snugly ensconced in some quiet nook, looking in their whiteness like a lot of Esquimaux snow-huts. The Connecticut river winds along slowly at the foot, seemingly within a stone's throw but in reality two miles away, looking like a great long blue ribbon dropped from above and taking its own shape as it fell.

But let us go to work systematically, and putting the glass to our eye, looking first to the northward, and as we turn to the eastward note what the eye takes in in the sweep. First you have, a dozen miles away, the towns of Bernardston and Northfield, with the bridge over the Connecticut river: raise the glass, and at a distance of 50 miles you see the Ascutney mountains; lower it again, and 40 miles away you see Mt Monadnock, and, still nearer, Mt Grace, 17 miles: the towns of Erving, 11 miles, Wendell, nine miles, Montague, four miles, Lake Pleasant, six miles, and, on a clear day, peaks of the White mountains of New Hampshire. You have now reached the northeast, and as you turn you see the peaks of Miner, seven miles, Holyoke, 15 miles, the Twin Uncanoonucs, near Concord, N. H., Wachusett, 35 miles, the town of North Orange, 18 miles, with Leverett, Dudleyville and Locks Pond Village, from three to five miles distant. From the east to southeast you see the towns of Long Plain, Shutesbury, Pelham and Prescott, five, eight, ten and eleven miles, respectively. Between the southeast and south, as you turn you find the towns of Amherst, eight miles, Belchertown, 15 miles, Ludlow, 20 miles, with the Holyoke range of mountains 15 miles distant, Mt Lincoln, 10 miles, and Hitchcock's mountain, 30 miles. From the south to the southwest you get the most extended view. The towns of Hatfield, Hadley, North Hadley, Plainville, Northampton, Florence, Leeds, "Easthampton, Holyoke, Blandford and the city of Springfield, distanced from 7 to 30 miles, are in view. In this area also are Mts Tom, 17 miles away, Holyoke 15 miles, and Warner, 8 miles. From southwest to west the only mountain to be seen is Sugar Loaf, two miles distant, and the towns of Sunderland, two miles, but seemingly at your feet, Whately, five miles, Williamsburg, 11 miles, Goshen, 13 miles, and South Deerfield. This brings us to the west, where, still wheeling around, we take in in order Deerfield mountain, two miles, Pocumtuck, 17 miles, Greylock and Saddleback, each 35 miles distant, and Spruce hill, 30 miles. Here, also, we are closest to the Connecticut river, and the statement that it is two miles away leads you to think your informant is disposed to "draw the long bow," so close does it seem. From the northwest to the starting point are the towns of Montague City, Turners Falls and Greenfield, eight miles distant, with Mt Haystack in the distance about 35 miles.

You lay down the glass, and with the naked eye note the points in your immediate vicinity, many of which you saw through the glass. You note the pretty cottages, the Connecticut river, the small hills, a pretty little cemetery at your feet, whose white monuments and head-stones appear like a child's play-house; you can see trains on the New London Northern and Fitchburg rail- roads which also seem like children's play toys- in fact, from your standpoint, all the rest of the world seems like a play-house.

Surfeited with rurality, you descend from the tower and pick your way cautiously down the steep sides of the mountain and arrive at the foot, where, if you have been judicious, you have left your lunch. Your journey up the mountain has given you an appetite, and you fall to with such a will as you have not known since you were a child. You have been so anxious to get to the top that you have not noticed the grove at the foot, but now you have a chance to look around you. You find a depot 60x40 with a splendid floor for dancing if you are disposed to "trip the light fantastic;" you find several swings and swings, a fountain of pure water supplied from Roaring brook, tables and rustic seats in the midst of a pretty grove, see-saws, and greensward. Back of the grove the rock rises perpendicularly several feet. There also is Pulpit rock, to which you can ascend and sit in peace. Or, if you are disposed that way, you can gather ferns and mosses in great variety. A day spent at Mt Toby you will find one of the most enjoyable of your life.

What sub-type of article is it?

Historical Event Curiosity

What themes does it cover?

Nature Exploration

What keywords are associated?

Mount Toby Historical Purchase Scenic Views Picnic Park Connecticut Valley

What entities or persons were involved?

Mayor Pynchon Mettawompe John Pynchon R. L. Goss Edward Hitchcock

Where did it happen?

Mount Toby, East Side Of Connecticut River, Near Sunderland And Leverett

Story Details

Key Persons

Mayor Pynchon Mettawompe John Pynchon R. L. Goss Edward Hitchcock

Location

Mount Toby, East Side Of Connecticut River, Near Sunderland And Leverett

Event Date

1674

Story Details

Historical account of Mount Toby's purchase in 1674 by Mayor Pynchon from Native Americans, its undisturbed period, recognition by Amherst College and Dr. Hitchcock in 1855, purchase by R. L. Goss in 1870-1871 who developed it into a park with roads, tower, and picnic grounds, featuring scenic views, cascades, and attractions.

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