The Virginia Gazette

From Letters, just published, of Joseph Baretti, giving an Account of a Journey from LONDON to GENOA, through Portugal, Spain, and France.

LISBON, August 30, 1760.

WELL, I am landed; and there is an English Antiquarian from a College who lent my Messenger to engage a Ci-devant Ballet, a faithful French Servant I had hired in London. He was presently found out; and, hearing of my unexpected Arrival, ran to me, and came quite out of breath with running, to congratulate on Chance of Joy and Surprise.

This Ballet took me to one Kelly, an old Irish Man who keeps a Kind of an Inn on the Strand of a Hill called Jones Alc. I was quite fatigued when we reached it. Here I have taken up my Quarters for the Time I shall stay in Lisbon; and now let us come to the Description of my Voyage.

It was about ten in the Morning when our People had a full View of the Rock of Lisbon; that is, of a very high Promontory on the left Hand as you enter the Tagus, and at no great Distance from the Mouth of it. That Promontory looks perfectly barren, and has the Appearance of a huge Heap of rugged Stones; yet I am told that up and down it there are many fine Spots, that in the lower Parts it is embellished with Vine-yards, that in several Places it is covered with Woods, and that it has even some Flats where Sheep and Cattle are grazing.

I am told farther, that on the utmost Top of it there is a Convent cut into the Rock itself, called the Cork Convent by the Sailors, because the Friars there have most of their Utensils and Furniture made of Cork, as the Place is so damp that they cannot have them of any other Material.

In short, so many curious Things were told me about that Rock, and about the Situation and Form of that Convent, that I have full Desire to go to see it.

Going up the River, I viewed the Shore on the left Hand of us. There are several Fortifications from Place to Place, besides numberless Buildings. We continued our Way up, and presently saw the Royal Village of Belem, where I am told that the King has resided ever since the Earthquake. In the Neighbourhood of a Town lately destroyed, I did not think I should see such a vast Number of Edifices as there are; but our Surgeon told me that the Earthquake vented itself chiefly upon Lisbon, and caused little Damage from Belem down to the Sea. It would have been a vast Addition to the Calamity Lisbon has suffered had so many Buildings been destroyed, to the utter Ruin of the many Thousands who live along that Shore. Those Buildings, some of which appear to be of a noble Construction, are all white on the Outside, with Lattices and Window Shutters painted green, which have a fine Effect from the River. Many of the Houses have Gardens and Terraces ornamented with Vases, Statues, Turrets, and Obelisks; and, withal, so many Trees round them, that the Coup d'Oeil is rendered one of the grandest and most picturesque. Nothing can equal it that ever I saw, except Genoa, with its Suburbs.

I imagine that this Prospect much less striking when viewed near and walking along Shore, because the Sight cannot embrace so many Objects at once as it does from a Distance, nor discriminate the ugly Parts; but the Whole, surveyed from the middle of the River, looks like the Work of some benevolent Enchanter.

The Tagus is about two Miles broad at the Mouth, but widens by Degrees as you go up, and over against the Town is nine or ten Miles broad. Lisbon is about fifteen Miles distant from the Mouth, but, as it was quite dark when I reached it, I did not see it.

The next Day, the 31st, was Sunday. And how do you think I spent the Afternoon? I will tell you by and by. Let me first say Something of the Morning.

I got up about nine, and while I was buying myself some luscious Grapes beheld Batiste alighting from a fine Spanish Horse, and a Moment after his Wife, from a Chaise drawn by two Mules, and led by as fine a Blackamoor as King Jarba in Metastasio's Dido. Ah! how do you go, my little Polly? And abruptly kissed her in the Face of the Sun, perfectly forgetting that I was in Portugal, where Women must not be kissed in the Face of the Sun. But one is so glad to see old Friends!

It was in London where I first knew this Polly, a pretty and modest Girl. Batiste left my Service to follow her to Portugal, where she went to live with an old Aunt who was to bequeath her all she had; and that All was no inconsiderable Fortune for a Girl who had Nothing but a pretty Face, and no Inclination to hire it. The Fellow was madly in Love with her, and she had no Aversion to him; but the Aunt was somewhat cross, and would not have her marry just turned of fifteen. The Earthquake rendered him her Husband sooner than he expected, and in a Manner so peculiarly uncommon that I cannot forbear to relate it. Nor can you tell me that it looks odd for a Master to be the Historian of his Servant; because a good Servant, in my Opinion, is a Hero, and full as valuable as any other human Being.

Batiste had just walked out of the Town, on the Morning when the Earthquake happened. Seeing the Houses tumble on all Sides, instead of stopping where he was, as some other Inamorato would probably have done, he ran precipitately back to the Town and towards the House where his Mistress lived, and had the incredible good Luck of spying her on a Heap of Ruins where she had fallen in a Fit while she was endeavouring her Escape. Had he tarried but a few Moments longer she would have perished in the Flames, that broke out around her in a Hundred Places. Without staying to examine whether she was dead or alive, he threw her over his Shoulders, and Fortune befriended him so completely that he carried his Burthen safe out of the Town, though many Buildings continued to fall about his Ears, and though Fire surrounded him on all Sides. The poor Thing came to herself as they came out of the Danger. They both looked at the immense Desolation that was left behind, both screamed and wept, and did not know what to do. The Houses still tumbled, and the Fire still broke out in every Part, which made them think that the poor Aunt was buried in the Ruins. They grew impatient to be far from such immense Misery, and immediately resolved to go back to England. Both had some little Money about them; therefore, not well knowing what they were doing, they took the Road to Spain. At Badajoz, Madrid, and other Places, they met with some charitable Relief; but no great Matter, it seems, for fifteen Months after the Earthquake they reached London in a most miserable Plight.

When they came to me there, Polly had a Girl in her Arms about three Months old; but they had married in France a little before the Birth of the Child, as I was convinced by their Certificates. Polly, Polly (said I, after having read them) and so you are married! What could I do (answered she, blushing up to her Eyes) Sir, we were alone, and he swore so much he would always be true! Here she cried, and kissed her Child; and I kissed her, that she might not think me too severe a Censor.

I thought it a Dream when they first made their Appearance, as the old Aunt had long before written Word from Lisbon to some Relation that they had both perished in the Earthquake. I told them this, and they apprised her by Letter of the contrary. The poor old Woman was transported with Joy and Thankfulness at the unexpected News, and insisted upon their going back to her, acquainting them that she had been lucky enough to save Something out of her former Fortune; and they complied with her Desire. But she did not enjoy them long, for she died soon after their Arrival, leaving them about a Hundred Moidores, which was all that she had. With this little Stock Batiste turned out a Jack of all Trades, and Polly took kindly to her Needle. Thus I found them every Day more happy in each other, and in their little Child; and as they are both industrious and laborious, I do not doubt but their Circumstances will grow better and better.

Now, said I, what is the Meaning of that Chaise and that Horse? Sir, said Batiste, they are for you. You cannot go about this Town, except you choose to be melted by the Heat, or killed by the Fatigue of going up Hill and down Hill. You must have a Chaise during the Time you stay here, and I am to attend you on Horseback.

Well, said I; you must know better what I aim to do in Lisbon, and so we will have the Chaise and the Horse.

After Dinner I got into the Chaise, attended as above; and the Negro trotted to a Place called Campo Pequeno, which is about four Miles (perhaps five or six) from the Town, where I was to see what they call the Bull Feast or Bull Hunting. But before I attempt to describe it I must premise that, being just come from a Country where the Lord's Day is not only professed, I could not help being shocked to see so many Christians, and especially so many Priests and Friars, present at such a Diversion, which to me seemed the most inhuman that ever could be invented by Men, next the Combats of the Gladiators in ancient Rome.

At Campo Pequeno a wooden Edifice has been erected for the only Purpose of exhibiting these barbarous Entertainments. The Edifice is an octagonal Amphitheatre, consisting of two Rows of Boxes, one Row over the other, and the Diameter of its Area is, as I take it, about two Hundred common Steps.
None of the Boxes has the least Decoration, except those of the Royal Family, which are hung with silken Stuff. The Row above is for the better Sort, and that of the Ground Floor for the Populace, who are likewise admitted into the Area, though their Danger is not small of being gored or trampled by the Bulls, whose Marches and Evolutions I take to be quite as rapid as those of the Prussian Troops.

In the Box where I took my Seat there were but three People besides myself, though the Box could contain ten or twelve. Two of the three had the Appearance of Gentlemen; the other was a Dominican Friar, a lean as a Lizard.

Before the Entertainment began I attempted some Converse with them but even the humble Religioso seemed to look upon me with Disdain and Contempt. They all answered my first Words with so churlish an Air that I gave over presently, and like them kept silent the whole Time. How I came to disgust them thus, at once, I cannot guess; but, by their frequent and affected Glances upon my Coat, which I held up at last to the Friar, not without some Resentment, that he might judge it nearer, I suspected that they conceived a very low Opinion of me for not being dressed in Silk, like other Gentlemen. Yet it was not my Fault, having not yet had Time to do what I must do in this hot Weather.

The King, whose Box was not far from that in which I sat, was dressed in a plain Sky-Blue, with nine Diamonds about him. He had with him his own Brother, the Infant Don Pedro, who has lately married the King eldest Daughter, called the Princess of Brazil.

The Queen was in another Box with that Princess, and her three other Daughters, all sparkling with Jewels.

In the Area, and just under the Queen's Box, there was a Man on Horseback, a Kind of Herald, I thought, dressed, somewhat like one of our Neapolitan Covielos in our Plays, who held a long Rod in his Hand.

As the King came in, two triumphal Cars, very meanly adorned, entered the Area, each drawn by six Mules. Eight black Africans were upon one, and eight copper coloured Indians upon the other. They made several Caracols round, then all leaped from the Cars, and bravely fought an obstinate Battle, with wooden Swords, one Band against the other. The Indians were soon slain by the Africans, and lay extended a While on the Ground, Shaking their Legs in the Air as if in the last Convulsions, and rolling in the Dust before they were quite dead. Then, like Bayes Troops in the Rehearsal, both the dead and the living went to mix with the Crowd, while the Cars drove away amidst the Acclamations of the Multitude, and made Room for the two Knights that were to fight the Bulls.

These Knights came in, both on Horseback, dressed after the ancient Spanish Manner, made fine with many Ribands of various Colours, with Feathers on their Hats, each brandishing a long and thin Spear. Their Horses were beautiful, mettlesome, and gallantly accoutred. One of the Heroes was clad in Crimson, the other in Yellow. Both looked very brisk, and both paid their Obeisance to the King, Queen, and People, making their Horses kneel three Times; then, clapping Spurs, made them caper and vault a While round the Area, with a surprising Dexterity.

When all this was over, the yellow Champion placed himself over against the Gate at which the Bulls were to come out; and the Crimson stood at some Distance from him, in the same Direction. A Man from without opened the Gate, and covered himself with it by getting behind. The Bull bursts out, and makes to the yellow Knight, who stands ready to receive him, with his Spear lifted high. The Bull's Horns had wooden Knobs on their Tips, that they might not gore the Horse if they should reach him. The courageous yellow Knight pushed his Spear at the Beast, left Half of it in his Neck, and made his Horse start aside in a Moment. The wounded Bull ran bellowing after him; but the Knight wheeling round and round, stuck two or three more Spears into his Neck and Shoulders. The Bull's Rage, as you may imagine, increased to a Degree that impressed Horror. And now the crimson Knight had his Turn; the Beast made at him, but got Nothing by changing his Attack, except some more Spears into several Parts of his Body, so that his Blood poured out in several Rills.

When the Bull began to remit his Fury, by Loss of Blood, one of the Champions drew a heavy Broad-sword, and gave him such a Cut on the Back, between the Ribs, as almost cleft him to the Middle. Down the poor Beast fell, with Such Roaring as I think was heard at Lisbon. Then the Man in the Covielo's Dress, seeing the final Blow, galloped straight to the Gate at which the triumphal Cars had entered, and ordered in a Pair of Mules, which dragged the dying Beast out of the Amphitheatre, together with some of the Populace, who had got astride upon the bloody and mangled Carcase. The Applause of the Spectators was very clamorous.

But I must not omit to say, that the two Knights were not the only Enemies the poor Bull had to encounter: There were two other Cavaliers on Foot, holding fast the Tails of the two Horses, running as they ran, or stopping as they stopped, each shaking a red silken Cloak, to frighten, or rather exasperate, the Bull; while some others, on Foot likewise, silly wounded him with Daggers in the Side and Buttocks.

The Agility of these Foot Champions is beyond all Belief. When the furious Beast made at any of them, they hopped aside, and were out of Danger. One of them, seizing one of the Bull's Horns, suffered himself to be dragged a While before he would let go his Hold; gave him several Cuts, with a Knife, while he was thus dragged; then let himself fall, got on his Legs in an Instant, and escaped. But a little Negro did still a bolder Thing: He stood full in the Bull's Way while running with the utmost Fury, and just, as I thought, he was going to be lifted on his Horns, took a Spring on the Bull's Back, and jumped clean over him.

Eighteen were the Bulls slaughtered in this Feast or Hunting, and each with some Variety of wanton Cruelty. Spears were stuck into some of them that carried Squibs and Crackers, whose Fire and Noise were more troublesome than the Wound. One of the most fierce leaped over the Barrier of a Box just under mine, and I expected him to do some Mischief; but the Portuguese are well aware of such Accidents, and the People in that Box were quick to quit their Seats, some throwing themselves over the Barrier into the Area, and some over the Partitions into the next Boxes. The Bull, embarrassed in the Benches, was presently dispatched by many Swords.

The last Bull, however, was very near revenging all the rest upon the crimson Knight and his Horse. He ran them both down with a terrible Shock; and had it not been for the Knobs on his Horns, the Horse, at least, would have been sadly gored. Both the Horse and the Knight were within a Hair of being trampled upon, when the other Knight gave the Bull a great Cut across the Neck, while all the Fighters on Foot thrust their Daggers, some into his Mouth, and some into his Eyes. The Horse got up, ran frighted through the Crowd, and threw several of them down, while his unlucky Rider, who was no great Gainer by his Tumble, stood cursing and swearing at the Horse, at the Bull, and at himself.

Thus ended the Massacre of those noble Animals; a Massacre encouraged as long as it lasted by a most outrageous Uproar, and concluded with a most thundering Clap of universal Approbation.

What Effect these cruel Spectacles (repeated almost every Sunday, as I am told) may have upon the Morals and Religion of this People, better Speculativists than myself may determine. To me, indeed, they appear most brutal and most unchristian. However, they have the Sanction of the Law of the Country, and the Government that permits and countenances them may have Reasons for so doing quite out of the Reach of my Intellects. Therefore, instead of yielding to the Temptation of blaming what to me appears very blameable, let me go on with Matter of Fact, and relate an Incident that suspended for about Half an Hour this horrible Entertainment.

The seventh or eighth Bull had been just slain and dragged out, and the Man at the Bull's Gate was going to let in another, when the People in the Ground Floor Boxes, opposite to that where I was, rose at once, out and all, with the most hideous Shrieks, leaped precipitately into the Area, and ran about the Place like Madmen.

This sudden Disorder terrified the Assembly, and few were those who had any Sangfroid left. All wanted to know what was the Matter, but the Noise of a Cataract could not have been traced through the Cries of such a Multitude. The King and Queen, the Princess, and Don Pedro, raised their Hands, Fans, and Voices, as I could see by the opening of their Mouths; but it was a considerable While before a Word could be heard about the Cause of so violent a Commotion. Yet at last the Impatience of universal Curiosity was satisfied, and a Report went round that some People, where the Uproar began, had cried out Earthquake, Earthquake!

In a Country where People have still fresh in their Minds the Effects of an Earthquake, it is no Wonder if such a Cry, that came at once from several Quarters, proved terrifying; and if those who heard it, without giving themselves an Instant to reflect, sprung over the Barriers into the Arena, to escape being crushed by the Fall of the Edifice.

However, the Fact is, that not the least Shock of an Earthquake had been felt by any Body. The Cry had been raised by a Gang of Pickpockets, in Order to throw the People into Confusion, and gain an Opportunity of stealing. The Scheme took, to a Wonder. Many Men lost their Handkerchiefs, and many Women their Caps; not to speak of Swords and Watches, Necklaces, and Earrings.

To plan such a Scheme, and carry it into Execution so undauntedly as it was, appeared to me as valiant an Achievement as any of Orlando's. I had been often in London to admire the Boldness and Intrepidity of the British Pickpocket, and thought them the very cleverest in the whole Creation. With them! they must not pretend to attempt Combat a pickpocket of Lusitania.
It is needless to tell that, on being apprised of the true Cause of that Disorder, the whole Assembly sat down again in Quiet; that the greatest Part, who had not been Sufferers by it, laughed at the thievish ingenuity; and that a new Bull was let loose in the Arena.

All here is the Account concluded of the most important Transactions of this Afternoon. What follows is merely set down by Way of Memorandum or my private Use, and not worth your reading.

I was told while at the Amphitheatre that one of the King's Chariot Horses had lost a Shoe; so that his Majesty was obliged to stop in the scorching Sun until another Horse was got ready, that he might proceed.

I thought it very odd that a King should have Servants so careless, and asked if he was put in a Passion by it; but was answered, that he laughed it out. A petty Gentleman would have stormed.

This Country is one of the hottest in Europe, yet its Inhabitants are not melted into Slenderness. I never saw anywhere so many fat Men, in one Place, as I have seen to Day.

In Lisbon both Men and Women, of the better Sort, seem to love Gaudiness in Dress. The Ladies, like those of Tuscany, and other Parts of Italy, wear many artificial Flowers stuck in their Hair. It is a pretty Fashion. I saw several beautiful Faces to Day, and many a Pair of brilliant Eyes.

Here, as in France and Italy, they have the absurd Custom of dressing their Children too much. I hate to see a little Girl with a Toupee, and a little Sword at the Side of a little Boy. The English are not guilty of such Folly. In England Boys and Girls, even when they are Sons and Daughters of Earls and Dukes, are never made to look like dwarfish Men and dwarfish Women; and this may be the Reason that England abounds less with Fops and Coquettes than either France or Italy.