Sacramento Daily Record Union

THE MEN THIS TIME

SOMETHING OF THE FALL STYLES

FOR GENTLEMEN.

Fashions in Goods and the Manner

of their Making Up for

the Fall.

The evening dress suits show marked changes. The skirts are out somewhat longer and the waist sets in more closely over the hips as if the coat was worn buttoned. All attempts, however, to popularize white or colored lining have failed, and black silk or satin will be the material generally used. A light cream or yellow silk sleeve-lining, however, is considered good form. That old-timer, the notched collar, is the style advised for corpulent men, while for tall and slightly-built persons the shawl-roll is considered most becoming. Broadcloth and invisible diagonals are the materials most in favor, not only for coats, but for trousers and waistcoats as well. When cloth waistcoats are worn they should be embroidered, and will be considered quite the thing, no matter whether they have three or four buttons. White waistcoats are also to be worn, but to be correct must be of embossed or embroidered silk. The trousers will be worn rather more closely fitting than last year yet not so tight as to be easily bagged at the knee. Hip trousers, to be worn without suspenders, are most in favor, but there is no objection to braces on that account. The full-dress evening shirt is still open in front. The tendency is toward flowered and ribbed pique bosoms, the floral design most favored being the fleur de lis. Fashion, however, permits the plain bosom with a narrow cord. Three or one studs is considered equally good taste, but two should never be worn. The cuffs should be attached to the shirt and be fastened by narrow links, while the standing collar, with turnover points, is necessary to perfect dress. The white tie is still in favor, although the narrow little bows of black satin will contest for the supremacy. To complete the evening full dress, a moderately wide-toed patent leather gaiter is considered the proper caper. Laced patent leathers, pumps, low-cut shoes and calf boots are tabooed.

A new idea in connection with evening dress is the dress sack coat. It looks well and costs much, and on this account will commend itself to many. It is made of fine worsteds. Its edges are bound with narrow French braid turned over so as to imitate cord, and the roll is silk-faced. On the left breast, high up, is a single button-hole, intended for a buttonniere or a Sir Knight's button. There are no buttons on the coat, nor any outside pockets. There are two inside pockets in the lower half of the coat, and the sleeves are turned back or finished to imitate cuffs 3 inches deep, and are closed with two buttons. These coats, however, are intended for wear only when the strains of formality are relaxed. Although made to wear on dress occasions, it is not intended to supplant the swallow-tail, but to be used in the proper place at the proper time in place of the claw-hammer. Such times and places would be at stag dinners, in the club house and the billiard room. In the overcoat line the Inverness without sleeves will be the most popular. Made moderately long, of medium or heavy weight goods, it can be put on and slipped off of the shoulders with great ease and without wrinkling the clothes or disarranging the collar, cuffs or tie.

For morning wear three or four-button cutaways will be quite the thing, the figure governing the garment's style. For instance, a stout man will be advised by his tailor to wear a three-button coat, while a slim man will be told that a four-button coat suits him best. A black or blue-black wale worsted diagonal is about the only material suitable for these coats, and should be trimmed with a flat braid laid on. For business the sack coat will lead. These will be made up of small check and stripe suitings, with striped effects taking the lead. Elderly gentlemen will find themselves best suited in the frock and one-button cutaways, the last-named coat being especially designed for corpulent men. For exceedingly dressy young men the double-breasted frock will offer attractions, for it can be worn in the early winter in lieu of an overcoat. The greatest change in coats from those worn last season will be in the roll of the collar, and is regarded as being decidedly effective. Fullness and perfection of contour will mark the neck and shoulders, and is the result of an attempt to meet the change made in waistcoats.

These changes consist in a tendency to lower the cut. While six-button straight and curved-crease vests will be worn, the most nobby and correct style is the five button. Plain and notched collars will be considered good form, but a no-collar vest is not to be thought of. The general change of trousers noted in those for full dress applies to those used for ordinary wear, except that the latter are a trifle higher in the waist.

The single-breasted fly-front Chesterfield will be the correct thing in overcoats for fall and early winter. Wide wale diagonals in dark colors will be the most swell although good form admits of kerseys, meltons and other light weight materials to be used. Corkscrews are no longer considered in good taste. For cold weather snugly-fitting coats of beaver, Montagnac cloth and like materials will be used. They should be made with full sleeves, quilted satin facing, single or double-breasted, and the sleeves and front should have piping of velvet as near the shade of the cloth as possible. For rough weather the cape ulster will be found a comfortable and correct style. It will differ from last year's style in that it will be made more roomy and longer. The correct length will be to within six or seven inches of the instep. The Astrakhan, with deep fur collars, frays and heavy cuffs, will also be affected by the too utterly utter, but for genteel dress they are not regarded as quite the thing.

Shoes will be worn very much broader at the toe than last year, the cloth-top button gaiter and the high-laced calf taking the lead. For dress occasions the patent leather laced will be good taste.

In hats, however, there is nothing strikingly novel either in form or color. The tendency seems to be toward a neat, genteel Derby. Leading dealers have brought out a hat of medium proportions, while one Broadway house offers a full black with a sort of a flat top—a compromise between a square and a round crown. About the only new thing in connection with these articles of dress is in the color. Black seal and golden brown will be popular as ever, but russet, nutria tobacco and hazel will come in for a fair share of favor. For knockabout the crush hat and Scotch cap will be worn. In high hats the tendency is toward lower crowns and a more decided bell. In neckwear, as in suitings stripes will be all the rage, plain colors and dots being tabooed.—N. Y. Mail and Express.