Daily National Intelligencer

COMMUNICATION

AUTHENTIC NARRATIVE OF AN INTERESTING TOUR.

FOR THE NATIONAL INTELLIGENCER.

On a fine morning in the early part of August, 1802, we started, on foot, from Berne, attended by two servants, (carrying a change of linen and some cold provision,) on our long projected tour through Switzerland. After having ascended the lake of Thun, we proceeded to the valley of Grindelwald, where we viewed the stupendous cataract called the Staubbach; visited the two glaciers and the famous field of ice, and then crossed Mount Sheidegg, having the whole chain of the Bernese Alps, within a few yards, on our right. Having, after 5 hours' walk, gained the summit of the mountain, where we took refreshments, we quickly pursued our journey, and reached, about sun-set, Meyringen, the chief town of the valley of Ober Hasly. This beautiful & fruitful valley, through which the river Aar flows in continual windings, is well worth the attention of the traveller. The ruins of many ancient castles, and the waterfalls with which its sides are decorated, produce a highly picturesque scene.

Leaving this abode of a happy, because contented people, we made no stay until we got to Luzerne. From this we made excursions upon Mount Pilate and Rigi Berg. The prospect from the latter is, perhaps, as extensive and grand as the human imagination can form an idea of; but the climbing up on the summit of Mount Pilate, does not reward you for the danger of breaking your neck. Not to leave any thing worth seeing behind us, we sailed all around the lake of Luzerne, the borders of which inspire you more with awe than with delight. Its shores witnessed the downfall of tyranny and the dawning of liberty. With indescribable emotion did we visit the Gruttli, where Tell and his associates swore to deliver their country from the Austrian yoke; the narrow pass of Kussnacht, where Gessler fell, and the chapel on the rock, from which Tell pushed back the boat, and thereby secured Swiss liberty.

From Kussnacht we proceeded to Stantz, where we engaged guides. The country separating the canton of Underwalden from that of Uri is almost impassable, on account of its alps and extensive forests, and, without guides, travellers risk falling into chasms, or losing their way.

After one and a half days of laborious walking, we arrived in full view of the Devil's mountain, from which we saw descend a lawine, or avalanche,* which burst at about half a mile from the spot where we stood; its course was preceded by a very strong wind, as cold as ice, which however ceased the moment it had burst. This mountain, from its shape and its stupendous height, inspiring you with dread and horror, well deserves the name it bears. Yet notwithstanding this, at hardly half a league from it, there is seated, in a delightful vale, sheltered from the lawines by thick rows of pines, a monastery of Ursulines, where we were perfectly well received, and accommodated with good beds.

Next morning, very early, we set out. Our guides had, at the Convent, provided themselves with cords, and something resembling the seats of old fashioned chairs, through which four holes were bored. After ascending for nearly three hours, during which time the atmosphere had gradually become very cold, we reached the foot of Wengeren Alp, having the shape of a steep roof, and covered with snow and ice. After incredible labor and trouble we arrived at its summit, where the cold was piercing, and from which we beheld a verdant vale, as if lying beneath our feet, but the access to which seemed almost impossible. Our guides now began to fasten to our seats the boards they had carried with them, and provided with long staffs, to which were fastened strong iron spikes, they put themselves, each one, on our right and left, and (the mountain on that side forming a ravine) giving us a start, we went with such velocity down the declivity that we never knew we had arrived at the bottom, until after having had several tumbles, we found ourselves on our noses on a fine green carpet woven by nature. None of us received the least injury, but one, whose board having given way, he arrived at the bottom in rather a pitiable though ludicrous plight. After having a little recovered from this strange mode of travelling, we proceeded to some hamlets at the farther extremity of the valley. Their inhabitants at first received us with shyness, but hearing us address them in their native patois, they immediately assumed a cheerful and friendly behaviour, and bid us welcome to their huts; where they received us with the most cordial hospitality. They informed us, that, for 6 or 7 years previously, they had not seen a strange human face; that they lived secluded, but happy among themselves, and that their small valley furnished them with all the necessaries of life. True enough, these were simple, and their wants moderate; milk, butter, cheese, and potatoes, were their daily food—their clothing was furnished by a herd of sheep.

On leaving these good & honest people next morning, we could hardly press on them a small remuneration, and we wished for their happiness and peace' sake, that their huts might not often er be frequented by travellers.

From Altdorf, we crossed mount St. Gothard, & returned home by the way of Milan, Genoa, Turin, & Geneva, having performed a pedestrian tour of about 222 leagues, in less than 7 weeks, viz: From Berne to Milan, over mount St. Gothard 60 leagues, say one hundred on account of frequent deviations from the straight road; from thence to Genoa, 30 leagues; from thence to Turin 18, from Turin (over mount Cenis,) 46 to Geneva, & from Geneva 28 to Berne. In all 222 leagues.

Washington city,

Feb. 14. 1820.

*A snow ball, formed by rolling from tops of mountains and sometimes large enough to overwhelm whole villages.