Virginia Free Press

The Free Press.

NOTES ON THE DESERT—CONTINUED.

Number 5.

BY THE REV. THOMAS SEWALL.

Wednesday, Feb'y 8th.

We are on our second day's journey from Sinai towards Akaba. There our contract with Toualeb terminates, and we shall take Hussein, as our guide and guard to Petra and Hebron. A passage we met with in Dr. Robinson's travels last evening, considerably diminished the attractions of that part of our tour; he speaks of Hussein as the treacherous chief of a lawless band—but we shall see. Our points of compass since we started, have been as follows: From Cairo to the Gulf of Suez a little South of East; thence to the town of Suez, North; thence to Sinai, with some deviations from the general direction, South-East; thence to Akaba, North East; from thence to Palestine the course will be due North. Friday, Feb. 10th. We reached the Gulf of Akaba last evening, through as wild a mountain pass as I ever saw, excepting none in Switzerland; if it was in Europe it would be the theme of every "guide book" and traveller's journal Our tents were pitched near the shore, and we found the music of the waves in delightful contrast with the oppressive stillness of the inland Desert. Our course now lies up the shore of the Gulf to the "fort of Akaba," distant about one day and a half. This forms the Eastern limit of Mehemet Ali's dominions, or rather his troops hold the fort, for the Bedouins acknowledge the rule of no foreign Governor. Although our last evening's resting place was on the shore of the sea, its associations were not quite so musical. A fight occurred on that spot a few months since between two parties of Arabs, touching the right of transporting travellers, and a Sheik was killed in front of his tent. Lord Castlereagh and party were the subjects of the controversy, and I believe that ours is the first party that has passed since that time. Such circumstances we find quite sufficient to destroy the enjoyment of the journey.

The shore here is covered with the greatest variety of curious sea-shells, from the largest conch to the very smallest specimens, of every form and hue. Multitudes of crabs, too, ran into the water as we approach them. They are smaller than ours, and rise edgewise when they run, leaving a track like that of a small bird

(February 12th.) We were happy about two o'clock yesterday to come in sight of Fort Akaba. It looked like home a little, for it was so much gained on our journey to Jerusalem. We were to exchange for a time the insecurity of the desert for the safety of a strong fortification; and the society of the wild Bedouins for that of men somewhat under European military discipline; and the remotest approximation to civilization is a great luxury here. After riding a few hours more we passed the site of the scripture "Elath" of "Ezi," one of the ports of Solomon, and reached the grove of palms in which the fort is situated. A troop of Arab women and children issued from the huts in the vicinity to receive us. We dismounted, and two of the party entered to deliver our letters to the Governor. I remained behind and had an opportunity to look around me for a moment and reflect. At my feet was the sea that had borne the richly freighted ships of Solomon; there, was the grave of his busy port: below, was the Island of Graia, one of the last points of contest between the Crusaders and Mahomedans: before me, was the Wady Arabah, which is unbroken to the Holy land; and all around, stretched the scorched mountains of "Seir," the inheritance of Esau It was an interesting spot, but the messenger soon interrupted my meditations, and I followed him into the presence of the Governor.

The walls which form the fort are about 300 feet square, massive, with towers at the angles; within, built against them and forming a part of them, are the apartments of the soldiers and their families. A large uncovered court or square, is still left, however; which answers for military exercises, &c.

A room was offered to us, but on inspecting it, the apprehension of vermin, scorpions, and the perpetual intrusion of the Governor's domestics, who prepared his coffee there, induced us to accept another offer and pitch our tent in the open court. Here we are settled then, with nothing to interrupt us but a small flock of goats, that find our tent cords convenient to rub their horns upon; and the twinkling eyes of the soldiers' children peering in at every chink and cranny to get a sight of the strange visitors. The first business to be transacted was the payment of Toualeb; he was called in therefore with the other old Sheik Materh, who had won the respect of all our party, and is really a most interesting man—the money was counted out in presence of the Governor and pronounced saib, "good." The scene was quite oriental. All the party were seated on the ground; the thick, bungling hands of Toualeb dropped the little gold pieces one by one on the skirt of his robe as he counted audibly in Arabic; Materh bent his turban low down to see that there was no error, and the Governor smoked, curled his long mustache with thumb and finger, followed every motion with his keen eye, and occasionally interrupted them with a remark.

We thought the transaction fairly closed; but what was our surprise to learn this morning that the payment was deficient by a small sum, according to the count of the Bedouins among themselves, and that we were expected to make up the deficiency. We were sure that the discrepancy had occurred through the artifice or blunder of the Arabs, but as it was small we were inclined to meet their wishes; after thinking it over, however, we concluded that it was a duty we owed succeeding travellers to adhere to the decision of the last evening, and confirm an impression which already obtains among the Bedouins, that "the English" (as they call us all) are men of one word," that when "saib" is interchanged at the close of a settlement; it is done forever. With some firmness of manner it was accordingly so settled. The payment of "back-sheish" we had deferred to the latest moment of their stay, for we were sure that they would be dissatisfied whatever amount was given, and we wished to be rid of their complaints—as soon as this morning, our tent door was darkened by one after another of their swarthy faces, and with eager looks they waited for the gift. The first proposition was to deliver it all into the hands of the Sheiks for division; but to this both Toualeb and Materh strenuously objected, because each expected to receive more from us than they would dare take for themselves.

That responsibility then fell upon us, and glad enough we were that the walls of the fort were around us, for the fierce looks of the dissatisfied Bedouins as the sums were announced, indicated that their views would have found some other expression in the desert. But it is a strange people, or after leaving us so discontented, to prepare for departure, the two Sheiks returned hand in hand, and in a patriarchal way looked toward heaven and said what seemed to be "We shall never meet again here, may the Christian and the Mahomedan meet above." "God grant it!" was the warm response of my heart.