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A young Bostonian in Valencia, Spain, describes the city's architecture, narrow dirty streets, beggars and monks, religious superstitions like St. Vincent's day processions and the Host administration, disregard for industry, women's gallantry, fertile agriculture, and a visit to ancient Murviedro where 1000 French repelled 8000 Spaniards and English under Gen. Roache. He expresses preference for republican America.
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Extract of a letter of recent date, from a young Bostonian, now in Valencia, to the Editors of the Boston Patriot.
I am surprised to find that so fine a city as Valencia containing upwards of one hundred thousand inhabitants, abounding in elegant and noble buildings, well worthy the attention of the historian, and the inspection of the traveller, should have been so little known.
Valencia, from the sea, can be but partially seen, in consequence of the Grao, or shipping fort coming directly in front, so as to intercept the view. The immense tower of the cathedral, however, is perceptible a great distance; as also are many domes of the churches, which, being covered with burnished tiles, make a very pleasing appearance. From the Grao to the city, the distance of which is about two miles, is an elegant walk, called the Alameda, which is most beautifully adorned with orange, lemon and mulberry trees, with a great profusion of the most choice flowers and plants. The walk for pedestrians is paved with handsome flag stone, and on one side runs a small canal. The other is appropriated for flower arbours, benches, &c; the whole forming a most romantic and charming scene. On first entering the city by the gate of Del Mar, I was struck with the fine appearance of the plazza St. Domingo, which is a fine square, containing many noble buildings, particularly the custom house, &c. From this I was led to expect an elegant city, but was soon disappointed, by finding those narrow and dirty streets which characterize all the principal cities in Spain.
The city contains many fine buildings, among which may be named the Cathedral, Exchange, Hospital, the Archbishop's palace, and many convents & churches.
Smugglers, chained in pairs, are employed to clean and repair the streets. One great nuisance is the multitude of beggars which infest the streets. It is impossible to pass twenty yards without meeting six or eight of them at their regular stands. There are also hundreds of other mendicants, called monks, who likewise traverse the streets, to the great annoyance of strangers—nor are they the most modest beggars to be met with. They generally begin by demanding, especially if you are a stranger, an half dollar, but will very graciously condescend to accept of a copper quarto. The principal amusements are the theatre, dancing, &c. There is not a week passes, however, but has more or less holy days, which bring with them their different diversions and grand processions. Sunday is considered a great day of amusement, and is generally devoted, except in the morning hour for mass, to horse-racing, fencing, quoits, &c. and in the evening balls, cards and dancing.
The people here generally possess a great disregard for agriculture and commerce, and indeed for human industry in general; an excessive pride and arrogant contempt of all other nations, a temper of the most malignant cast, which drives them to seek revenge in a most cowardly and dastard like manner: there are, however, some few exceptions from this general rule. They are also remarkable for their superstitious veneration of the clergy. The women are handsome, good tempered, and much prone to gallantry, which gives them an additional advantage in the eyes of a stranger.
The following will give you some faint idea of their superstition.
On St. Vincent's day (the patron of the kingdom of Valencia, who flourished about 150 years ago) numerous stages are erected in all the principal squares of the city, on which are represented the miracles said to have been performed by this good Saint. One representation is the Saint's recovering an immense rice cake that had been stolen; another stopping a ferocious bull with his holy water sprinkler. A moor, who had fallen from the top of a house, is kept suspended in air: the scattered members of a child that had been cut to pieces, are instantly joined by a touch of his crucifix. What a sublime representation in honor of the deity!
The Host, or Sacrament, is administered to sick persons, who have been pronounced past recovery. It is carried in the day or night, as occasion may require, with great pomp and parade, escorted by a guard of soldiers, with a band of music. It moves slowly along, the monks chanting, and bearing in their hands a long lighted candle of wax. This they believe is the real presence of the Deity. You are warned of its approach by the ringing of a small bell. As soon as it appears, down upon your knees you must go, and take off your hat, if you value your life. If in the night, lights must be placed in all your windows. If in the day, your balconies must be decorated with crimson silk, &c.
The country for several miles round Valencia is one continued plain, under the highest state of cultivation, presenting now the appearance of a New-England August. Luxuriant fields of wheat and corn, with plantations of olives, mulberry, fig and orange trees, &c. The country, however, wants that diversity of scenery so common and beautiful in America. You are soon tired of wandering over a prospect which presents the same object at every turn of the eye. The soil is extremely rich, and produces two crops of wheat a year. Every month brings with it new seed times and new harvests, so that the husbandman has no respite the year round. Apricots, strawberries, cherries, &c are now in great perfection and plenty, and for about 80 cents sufficient could be bought to furnish a dessert for ten people.
A few days since I visited, with a party of ladies and gentlemen, Murviedro, about 12 miles distant, where once stood the ancient Saguntum. The town contains about 500 inhabitants, who are principally engaged in agriculture. It is defended by a strong and large castle, where the French, consisting of 1000 men, kept at bay 8000 Spaniards and English, under Gen. Roache, who were compelled to retire. Among the most conspicuous of the ruins, are plainly to be seen the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, situated on the declivity of a hill: 9000 people, it is said, could be accommodated here, and the gradations of the seats are still to be seen.
After all I have seen in the new world I pant again to visit my dear and native place. I have seen quite enough of this country to disgust me, and to render the one I left far more valuable. I have seen sufficient of kings and nobles to endear me still more to the beloved and simple Republicanism of my country—that country whose rising greatness I contemplate with so much pleasure; that country of which I am proud to call myself a citizen. It is indeed with pride that I say it, I am a citizen of the only free country on earth—feared and respected by all, whether enemies or friends.
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Foreign News Details
Primary Location
Valencia, Spain
Event Date
Recent Date
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Outcome
1000 french kept at bay 8000 spaniards and english under gen. roache, who were compelled to retire
Event Details
A young Bostonian describes Valencia's architecture, narrow dirty streets, beggars, monks, religious customs including St. Vincent's day miracle representations and Host processions, people's pride and superstition, women's gallantry, fertile agriculture with two wheat crops yearly, and a visit to Murviedro with Roman ruins and a past battle where French defended the castle successfully.