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A joint German-American expedition plans to climb Nanga Parbat, the world's eighth highest mountain at 26,629 feet in Western Kashmir, this summer. The bulletin details its challenges, isolation, accessibility, and a fatal 1895 British attempt led by A.F. Mummery.
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Attempt to Climb the Lofty Summits of Nanga Parbat
EIGHT HIGH MOUNTAINS
Washington.—Nanga Parbat is to be attacked this summer. This means that the world's eighth highest mountain will be stormed by climbers intent on conquering heights greater than any ever before attained by man. The party of mountaineers, consisting of Germans and Americans recently arrived in India, where local guides will be added. A bulletin from the National Geographic society tells of this mountain that has lured climbers half around the world.
Eighth Highest Mountain.
"Although Nanga Parbat with an altitude of 26,629 feet, is eighth among the world's peaks," says the bulletin, "it probably ranks much closer to the top of the list when difficulty in climbing is considered. It rises from a relatively low base, is furrowed by tremendous glaciers, and is surrounded by numerous large boulder-covered moraines on the lower slopes that must be clambered over before the real climb starts. The top mile consists largely of sheer precipices. Glaciers can be followed to a certain point; but above the glaciers on the south side there is 15,000 feet still to go, and on the north side, 12,000 feet. In Western Kashmir.
"Nanga Parbat is a Himalaya peak, and therefore probably is bracketed in the minds of many with Mount Everest, highest point on earth. But such is the magnitude of the Himalaya range that the two peaks are more than 900 miles apart. Everest is almost in the longitude of the eastern edge of India, while Nanga Parbat is in the extreme western portion of Kashmir.
"Nanga Parbat, in fact, is a lone eagle among the loftiest peaks. It towers nearly a mile and three-quarters above all peaks within a radius of 120 miles. This lack of nearby competitors accentuates the huge scale on which the mountain is built.
"Although this mountain is probably as difficult to scale as any, save one or two, in Asia, it has one advantage in the accessibility of its base. The Gilgit trail, from Srinagar, capital of Kashmir, to Gilgit and on to Chinese Turkestan, runs close to the base of Nanga Parbat near the hill town of Astor. The existence of this trade trail, and along it numerous villages, simplifies the food problems of those attempting to scale the peak.
One Attempt Fatal.
"The only serious attempt to climb Nanga Parbat was made in the summer of 1895 by a party of Englishmen led by A. F. Mummery. While the main party shifted its base camp, Mr. Mummery and two Gurkha assistants attempted a climb above 20,000 feet and lost their lives, presumably in an ice avalanche. Falls of both ice and rocks are frequent on the mountain slopes in summer.
"The only named peaks higher than Nanga Parbat are Everest, 29,002 feet; Kinchinjunga, 28,295; Godwin Austen, 28,250; Makalu, 27,790; and Dhaulagiri, 26,795. Two other peaks, denominated K2 and K3 in the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, are also higher, having altitudes of 26,867 and 26,658 feet, respectively. All of these world 'top notchers' are in the ranges of northern India."
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Nanga Parbat, Western Kashmir, Himalaya
Event Date
This Summer; 1895
Story Details
A German-American team plans to climb Nanga Parbat, the eighth highest peak, known for its extreme difficulty with glaciers, precipices, and avalanches. A prior 1895 attempt by English climbers led by Mummery ended fatally.