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Story March 25, 1874

Watertown Republican

Watertown, Jefferson County, Dodge County, Wisconsin

What is this article about?

A Peruvian traveler en route from Liverpool to New York survives the wreck of the steamer Arcadia near Halifax, Nova Scotia, after it strikes a rock due to navigational error. He attributes his survival and that of companions to fateful decisions, clinging to the hull until rescued by island boats.

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SAVED FROM A WRECK.

It seemed like a presentiment! At least there was something very remarkable in the fact that my countrymen and fellow-travelers, Dons Manuel and Domingo, should have altered their plans at the last moment of leaving England, and, instead of returning to Peru, their native country, via New York, as had been previously agreed, decided to go by the more direct way of Jamaica. A thousand miles more or less is no consideration with such travelers as we Peruvians are, and although New York is a little out of the way to South America, my friends did not hesitate on that account.

However, it was finally arranged that my companions should return to Peru by the Jamaica route, and that I should meet them there after touching at New York, where my wife and family were residing. Some valuable works of art which my fellow-travelers had purchased during our ten months' wanderings in Europe were to have gone with me to New York; but here again the finger of fate seemed to interpose, and labeled them "glass, with care," direct to Peru by sailing vessel.

I wished afterward that I had adopted the same precaution with regard to a small leather bag that contained various presents for my friends in South America, besides many little treasures which I had collected abroad.

I had my choice of steamers for New York, as two were about leaving Liverpool for that city. Both had alike the reputation for fast sailing and cabin comforts, but the fates decreed that I should embark in the one which I will call the Arcadia, and I accordingly secured a berth in the saloon department of that vessel.

I am an old traveler, and therefore nothing was omitted in my list of requirements for a voyage by sea, except a life-preserver, which I had intended purchasing in London, but which, in the hurry of my departure, I had forgotten. My portmanteau was, as usual, stowed away in a place in my cabin: the leather bag, containing my money and valuables, was consigned to the care of the purser: and before I retired to rest an old sock-in which I was accustomed at night to place my silver match-box, my gold repeater, a couple of valuable rings, and a little loose cash,-was deposited under my pillow. Like most of my countrymen, I am an inveterate smoker, and I had not forgotten to provide myself with a goodly supply of cigars of the best brand, together with a few packets of cigarettes.

The Arcadia was not altogether what I should have considered a clean and perfectly sound vessel; indeed this was her last voyage before putting into dock for repairs. However, I slept and fed well, and the speed at which we started left nothing to be desired.

We steamed out of Liverpool, and on the following day we had already made 344 miles. On the next day, however, we were caught in a severe gale, which rent some of our sails and retarded our progress. But on the morrow there was a calm, and, notwithstanding this, we made only 244 miles. On the next day with the weather still in our favor, we made but 180 miles.

The passengers now began to comment on the tardiness of the steamer, and many were of opinion that the coal supply was deficient; and, when, three days later, we found that we had made at the rate of 169 miles per 24 hours, we twitted our captain good-naturedly about the stingy allowance of coal.

We were a merry party and fraternized much during the tedious voyage, occupying the hours by playing chess, cards, and other games, and laying wagers as to the number of miles the steamer was making per day. Three of the saloon passengers, whom I will call Mr. Welch, Mr. Sant, and Mr. Kew, were especially friendly with me --perhaps because I was a foreigner, and contributed largely toward maintaining the hilarity on board. They also helped me to consume the good Havana cigars which I had brought.

On the last day of that memorable month, the fact could not be concealed that the Arcadia was either deficient in coal or that the supply was of inferior quality; and, upon the morning of that day, it was resolved to make for Halifax. At 12 o'clock our captain gave orders to change the route, and put the ship's head northward.

It was only after the mischief was done we learned that the steamer had at that moment already passed Halifax by 160 miles. The Arcadia was then sailing at the rate of 13 miles an hour.

My friend, Mr. Welch, whose destination was South Carolina, signified his intention to land at Halifax, and continue the rest of the journey to New York by rail. He advised me to follow his example; and, as I was heartily tired of the sea voyage, I willingly agreed to accompany him. Other passengers joined in our scheme, and discussed with us the best means of carrying out our intentions. But man proposes, and

I retired early to my berth on the evening of a very memorable day, and slept somewhat more soundly than I had hitherto done. The thought of awakening on the morrow off Halifax, and continuing the journey by land, was a delightful prospect and I soon began to dream that I was already in the bosom of my anxious family.

Long before daybreak, I was awoke by a strange noise, as of machinery in violent motion. At first I took no notice of the sounds, for I attributed them to the hauling up of cinders from the furnaces below. Upon their being repeated, however, I threw a few clothes on, tripped into my slippers, and entered the saloon.

Here I was met by one of the stewards, who, in great agitation, informed me that the steamer had struck. I thought at first he was only joking, and that he meant the vessel was "on a strike," and refused to go on. His real meaning was, however, soon made clear to my understanding. The steamer had struck on a rock, and was fast sinking.

My first impulse was to fly to a high part of the vessel, and trust in Providence for my deliverance. Recollecting, however, that death from exposure to the cold was said to be even worse than death from drowning, I returned to my cabin for my heavy overcoat and traveling cap. I bethought me, also of the old sock, which, besides my watch, rings, and match-box, contained twenty-three sovereigns; and thinking these might prove of service, I gathered them together and stuffed them hurriedly into a pocket of my warm overcoat, where I found also a few cigars and cigarettes. There was no time for any further preparations. The water was already rushing in torrents down the cabin stairs, and before I had time to reach the deck my feet were soaking.

The scene on deck was indeed terrible. The door of the steerage cabin had been thrown open, and the emigrants were pouring out like ants from a besieged ant-hill. Women and children were running wildly about in all directions, and rent the night air with their shrieks and piteous cries for help.

Alighting on the quarter-deck, I encountered Mr. Sant in the act of putting on a life-preserver, and near the wheel-house the last of the signal rockets were being fired.

Instinctively, or, as if inspired, I clung to the broad wooden rail on the starboard or right hand side of the steamer; for in that moment the vessel suddenly heaved over, and threatened to precipitate me into the sea. I now fell on my knees, and, in my native tongue, implored heaven to forgive my sins, and protect my wife and children.

I fancied that I saw my dear family standing in the centre of the deck before me, and the illusion was only dispelled when I observed that the deck was so much out of the horizontal that I was forced to hold fast to the rail in order to save myself from falling forward.

I clung for very life to an iron bar of this rail, for the steamer had keeled over again, and stood, as they say, "on her beam ends."

I thought it very strange that she should have fallen with her deck seawards, when the wind and waves were inclining her to the land side. If, however, she had fallen in the opposite direction, every soul on board must have perished.

Wearied with grasping the rail of the steamer, I ventured to change my place of safety, and, for this purpose, moved cautiously toward the hurricane deck, which is the highest part of a vessel.

Seating myself upon one of the iron props of the bridge, I felt the waves as they dashed against the upturned hull, and I heard a voice repeatedly cry: "Take to the rigging!"

I, however, did not avail myself of the invitations, for I could observe indistinctly that the rigging was black with people, and it was, besides, difficult to approach that quarter of the steamer.

Light was issuing from the port-holes of the hull beneath me; but this was presently extinguished by the waves, as they dashed into the little windows.

I soon became thoroughly drenched with water, my feet and hands were benumbed with the cold, and my slippers and I parted company.

Suddenly I lost my hold and fell. I now thought that my end was indeed approaching; but by a miracle I presently found myself seated saddle-fashion on the wooden rail below. Again I thanked heaven for my safety, and, as I was uttering the words, a voice near me asked whether I was addressing him.

"No," I replied, "I am praying, and I recommend you to do the same."

"What language do you pray in?" he inquired.

"In Spanish," I answered; "but you can pray in your own language, you know."

The waves still beat with fury against the wreck, and now daylight began to appear, and gradually revealed the objects around. Land--so dreaded a few hours since, so welcome now--was distinctly visible. The steamer appeared to be enclosed in a kind of semicircle of land.

In turning my head I beheld my friend Mr. Sant, whom I found to be the person who had last addressed me.

"Are you Senor C-?" he asked.

"I am."

"Oh! we are lost!--we are lost!" he exclaimed.

"On the contrary," I said, "I believe we are saved."

"Saved for the moment only!" he said.

The poor fellow had neither hat nor coat on, and was shivering with cold, water was dripping from his head, and his watch-guard hung loosely from his waistcoat. He told me he had offered a sailor fifty dollars for a life preserver; and that the man had accepted his offer, but Mr. Sant's hands were so benumbed with cold that he was unable to extract the coin from his fob. The sailor, therefore, helped himself. The life-preserver, however, proved of no service; nor had a life-preserver been of any use to George, one of the attendants of the saloon, who had tried to avail himself of one. His body was then floating under my gaze.

By the blessed light of day I could now calculate the distance which separated us from land. The nearest point of terra firma was a large rock about twenty-five miles from the prow-head: beyond the rock was a small island, which I afterwards learned was called Gull's Head. Many of the shipwrecked passengers and crew were already assembled on the rock, while others had reached the island.

One unfortunate, whom, from the color of his skin, I judged to be an engine-stoker, lay groaning and making horrible contortions with his body near my feet. The poor fellow, like many others, lost his reason. Fearing that in his paroxysms he might clutch at my feet, and that we should both roll overboard, I thought it advisable to shift my quarters.

This was easier said than done, for I had lost the use of my feet. I however contrived to crawl on my knees along the edge of the hull, holding on to the rail of the steamer, and pausing here and there till I found an opportunity to pass, for the overturned hull was crowded with people.

During one of these pauses, I bethought me of indulging in the luxury of a cigar. I remembered that my matches were safely deposited in my sock, and I thought that perhaps the water had not penetrated the silver box which held them. I accordingly extracted a cigar from a pocket of my overcoat, and placed it in my mouth. Alas! the cigar was soaking with sea water. I allowed it to fall from my lips, while I continued my journey, which was of more vital importance.

When I had reached the centre of the steamer, I observed a boat coming from the island. It appeared to be extremely small, was without seats, and the fishermen by whom it was manned seemed to be afraid to approach too near to the wreck. A few minutes later a larger boat put off from the island, and came to the rescue of the passengers. I had now reached that part of the steamer where the mizzen-mast is situated, and here I found my friends Welch and Kew. We exchanged greetings, and I placed myself literally, and not in the Spanish sense of the expression, "at their feet."

While conversing with my friends, some of the passengers and crew were being removed from the wreck by means of a rope, which, as I afterward heard, had, by the bravery of the first officer, been connected with the rock, and again from the latter to the island. Those who availed themselves of this means of escape were sadly beaten by the waves, which rose higher and higher every moment. Many of them, exhausted by their efforts, and frost-bitten by the cold, fell dead on their way along the rope.

Among those who remained on the hull, awaiting the approach of the boats, were not a few who went raving mad, slipped into the sea, and were drowned.

My frozen hands and feet rendered me powerless to leave the wreck by means of the rope, so I made no effort in that direction. Occasionally I raised my wet overcoat from my chest, to see if my body continued warm, and I was thankful at the sight of the vapor which it dispelled.

The boats now began to venture nearer to the wreck, and those who had not lost the use of their hands and feet passed onward toward the bow of the steamer, and in turn descended by a rope and embarked.

Unable to follow their example, I patiently awaited some other means for my rescue. Presently the larger boat returned from the island for the fifth time, and passed from the stern end of the steamer under that part of the hull where I was stationed. As it approached, I let go my hold, and, trusting to good fortune that I might hook on to the boat by an arm or a leg, I slipped downward over the hull. My left leg missed its mark, and it was then, I think, that I received the two gashes in my foot, which for many long weeks afterward I retained. I fell into the water, but in doing so I contrived to hook on by an arm to the gunwale of the boat, and in this condition and by swimming a little with my legs, I was soon hauled in, head foremost, by one of the fishermen.

By this means I was safely landed. My feet were greatly swollen and bleeding, especially my left foot; but all sense of feeling had long since deserted me, and I experienced no pain.

Two men supported me in their arms, and endeavored to restore animation. While they were doing so, I clasped my hands, and thanked God aloud for my deliverance. One of the fishermen, who, of course did not understand the language in which my words were uttered, called to a messmate and said: "I say, Johnny here's a fellow talking gibberish. He's gone clean mad, you bet."

I soon assured him, in his own language, that I was in my right senses.

"Well, then, Johnny," said he, "take off your socks, if you have any with you, and put them on this gentleman, for he can't walk, and that's a fact."

Johnny obeyed, and afterward assisted one of the men to convey me to the house of a fisherman named O'Brien, who was also the magistrate of Gull's Head island. O'Brien and his daughter were very kind, and provided tea and bread and butter for all the passengers who arrived at their humble dwelling. We numbered upward of a hundred and fifty at the fisherman's house; but we were all men, for every woman had perished in the wreck; and only one boy, a lad of fourteen years, was saved.

While the tea was preparing, I succeeded in drying by the fire and smoking one of my cigarettes. After the six or seven hours of suffering which I had just experienced, that little cigarette was a luxury ever to be remembered. And shall I ever forget the hot cup of tea and the bread and butter which followed?

After partaking of this (as it then seemed to me) princely fare, the captain of the ill-fated steamer walked in, and finding how many ship-wrecked people were billeted on O'Brien; he said that some of us must be removed to another locality. I and some others were accordingly removed to another house, where we again regaled with tea and bread and butter. But after partaking of that second meal I was shown into a bedroom, where I soon threw off my damp clothes and retired for the night!

On the following morning, at 3 o'clock, came the welcome news that some steamers for our conveyance from the island had arrived from Halifax. and shortly afterward we were on board one, called the Delta.

In due course we landed at Halifax. and some of our party were taken to a hotel in that city. There I was visited by Dr. J--, who examined my feet, and declared that my left foot showed signs of gangrene. Dr. --, another physician of the town, differed, and undertook to cure my feet by the application of carbonized oil.

Next day, accompanied by my friends and fellow-sufferers, Welch and Kew, and a servant who had been saved from the wreck, I left Halifax in a small steamer, and, after a peaceful voyage of two nights and a day, landed at Portland.

Thanks to the carbonized oil prescribed by Dr. W---, the much dreaded gangrene never appeared.

From Portland we went on to Boston. My servant Tom, assisted by some laborers, who willingly volunteered their services, carried me in turn from the steamer to the train. In a few short hours we arrived at Boston, and after breakfasting at the Tremont house, where payment was generously refused by the landlord, I bade adieu to my friends Welch and Kew, whose destination was in another direction, and took the train for New York and home.

What sub-type of article is it?

Disaster Survival Personal Triumph

What themes does it cover?

Misfortune Survival Providence Divine

What keywords are associated?

Shipwreck Arcadia Steamer Survival Halifax Gull's Head Fate Rescue Coal Shortage

What entities or persons were involved?

Senor C Mr. Welch Mr. Sant Mr. Kew O'brien Dr. J Dr. W

Where did it happen?

Atlantic Ocean Near Halifax, Nova Scotia; Gull's Head Island

Story Details

Key Persons

Senor C Mr. Welch Mr. Sant Mr. Kew O'brien Dr. J Dr. W

Location

Atlantic Ocean Near Halifax, Nova Scotia; Gull's Head Island

Story Details

Peruvian traveler Senor C- boards steamer Arcadia from Liverpool to New York; due to coal shortage, it veers toward Halifax but strikes a rock 160 miles past, capsizing. He clings to hull through night, survives cold and chaos as women and children perish, rescued by boats from Gull's Head island, treated for injuries, and continues to New York, crediting fate for prior plan changes.

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