The Massachusetts Spy

Boossa, June 18. This morning we visited the far-famed Niger or Quorra, which flows by the city about a mile from our residence, and were greatly disappointed at the appearance of this celebrated river. Black, rugged rocks rose abruptly from the centre of the stream, causing strong ripples and eddies on its surface. It is said that, a few miles above Boossa, the river is divided into three or four branches, by two small fertile islands, and that it flows hence in one continued stream to Funda. The Niger here, in its widest part, is not more than a stone's throw across at present. The rock on which we sat overlooks the spot where Mr. Park and his associates met their unhappy fate: we could not help meditating on that circumstance, and on the number of valuable lives which have been sacrificed in attempting to explore this river, and secretly implored the Almighty that we might be the humble means of setting at rest for ever the great question of its source and termination.

Boossa, June 22. Our hostess is an agreeable and good natured woman, but she is excessively vain of her person; so much so, indeed, that she employs several hours in the day in dressing her hair, which hangs down below the face in three plaited queues, one of them from the forehead, and one from each side of the head; after which she affixes ornaments on different parts of her body, stains her lips and teeth a shining red color with henna (a species of myrtle); and when all this is done, she admires herself in a broken looking glass which we have given her. This is the most whimsical and diverting part of the ceremony: she approaches the glass and retreats from it again, smiles when she fancies she looks pretty, and distorts her features, and throws her body into all manner of comical attitudes, to ascertain which is the most engaging.

About midday we embarked from Kakogie, and proceeded some distance down the stream, for the purpose of getting into the branch of the Niger, where there is deeper water. This object was soon attained, and we found it flowing from north to south, through a rich and charming country, which seemed to improve in appearance the further we advanced. We were propelled at a good rate up a channel, which, from half a mile in breadth gradually widened to rather better than a mile. Beautiful spreading and spiry trees adorned the country on each side of the river, like a park; corn, nearly ripe, waved over the water's edge; large open villages appeared every half hour; and herds of spotted cattle were observed grazing and enjoying the cool of the shade. The appearance of the river, for several miles, was no less enchanting than its borders: it was as smooth as a lake; canoes, laden with sheep and goats, were paddled by women down the almost imperceptible current; and a variety of aquatic birds, were sporting over its glassy surface, which was ornamented by a number of pretty islands.

The river gradually widened to two miles, and continued so as far as the eye can reach. It looked very much like an artificial canal; the banks having the appearance of a dwarf wall, with vegetation beyond. In most places the water was extremely shallow, but in others it was deep enough to float frigates. During the two first hours of the day the scenery was as interesting and picturesque as can be imagined. The banks were literally covered with hamlets and villages; fine trees, bending under the weight of their dark and impenetrable foliage, every where relieved the eye from the glare of the sun's rays, and contrasted with the lively verdure of the little hills and plains, produced the most pleasing effect. Afterwards, however, there was a decided change; the banks, which before consisted of dark earth, clay, or sand, were now composed of black rugged rocks, large sand banks and islands were scattered in the river, which diverted it into a variety of little channels, and effectually destroyed its appearance.

At Jenna. It is the custom, when a governor dies, for two of his favorite wives to quit the world on the same day, in order that he may have a little pleasant, social company in a future state: but the late governor's wives had no ambition or inclination to follow their venerable husband to the grave, and went and hid themselves before the funeral ceremonies were performed, and have remained concealed ever since with the remainder of his women. Today, however, one of these unfortunates—she to whom the house belongs—was discovered in her hidden place, at the present governor's, and the alternative of a poisoned chalice, or to have her head broken by the club of the fetish priests, was offered her; she has chosen the former mode of dying, as being the less terrible of the two, and has come to spend her last hours in the society of her faithful slaves.—These address their mistress by the endearing name of mother. Poor creatures! as soon as they learnt her misfortune, they dropped their spinning; the grinding of corn was also relinquished; their sheep, goats, and poultry were suffered to roam at large without restraint; and they abandon themselves to the most excessive and most poignant grief; but now the arrival of their mistress has added, if possible, to their affliction. There is not to be found in the world, perhaps, an object more truly sorrowful than a defenceless woman in tears; and on such an occasion as this, it may easily be conceived the distress is more peculiarly cutting. A heart that could not be touched at a scene of this nature must be unfeeling indeed. Females have been coming all day to condole with the old lady, and to weep with her, so that we have heard and seen nothing but sobbing from morning till the setting of the sun. The principal males in the town have likewise been here to pay their last respects to their mistress; and so has the grave-digger, who has just risen from prostrating himself on the ground before her. Notwithstanding the representations and remonstrances of the priest, and the prayers of the venerable victim to her gods for fortitude to undergo the dreadful ordeal, her resolution has forsaken her more than once. She has entered our yard twice to expire in the arms of her women, and twice has she laid aside the fatal poison, in order to take another walk and gaze once more on the splendor of the sun and the glory of the heavens, for she cannot bear the idea of losing sight of them for ever. She is still restless and uneasy, and would gladly run away from Death if she durst, for that imaginary being appears to her in a more terrible light than our pictures represent him, with his shadowy form and fatal dart. Die she must, and she knows it: nevertheless, she will cling to life till the very last moment. Meanwhile her grave is preparing, and preparations are making for a wake at her funeral. She is to be buried here in one of her own huts the moment after the spirit has quitted the body; which will be ascertained by striking the ground near which it may be lying at the time, when if no motion or struggle ensues the old woman will be considered as dead. The poison used by the natives on this occasion destroys life, it is said, in 15 minutes.