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Alexandria, Alexandria County, District Of Columbia
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Advice for Northern invalids seeking health recovery in St. Croix, West Indies, highlighting its uniform climate, smooth roads, fruits, and practical tips on passports, money, clothing, exercise, boarding houses, medical care, society, and communication.
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The Danish island of St. Croix has become the most popular, as it has proved the most healthy location in the West Indies, for those invalids of the Northern States, who are suffering from pulmonary affections. Last winter and Spring we were favored with a series of descriptive letters from that island, which attracted much attention. The consequence has been, that both the gifted writer and ourselves, have been repeatedly applied to for information upon various matters connected with health and comfort, by those who are desirous of exchanging the rigors of a Northern Winter for the balmy breezes of "the sweet South." In consequence of these applications, the writer of the communications referred to, has prepared the following article, in the hope that it may be generally published, for the benefit of those whom it may concern:—N. Y. Com.
ST. CROIX.
Messrs. Editors:—I have had repeated enquiries addressed to me, in relation to the beautiful island of St. Croix, where I passed the last winter, and from which some letters of mine were published in your valuable paper; and it has been suggested to me, that I might render a useful service by sending you another letter, giving such information as invalids, about proceeding to it for health, would generally wish to obtain. It gives me pleasure to comply with the suggestion, although I have many cares, which forbid me to give so much time to the matter, as might be desirable. I passed a delightful winter in St. Croix, and I believe few spots on the face of the earth, so easily accessible, offer so many solid advantages and comforts for the invalid. The temperature is very uniform—there are no stormy days during the winter months, and I believe there will not ordinarily occur three days from November to May, the time when invalids usually take their departure—in which the most delicate person would be prevented by the weather from taking free exercise in the open air. And then the roads, we know nothing like them in this country—so smooth—so firm. It is luxury to roll over them. They are all macadamised, and in the towns, are kept with the utmost neatness, as in fact they are all over the island. But I need not repeat what I wrote to you last winter; suffice it to say, that what I then wrote, is plain matter of fact. The balmy air, the rides, most agreeable from fine roads and fine scenery, and the excellent fruits, &c. of the island, make a winter's residence there delicious—much too pleasant in the recollection to one, who has the near prospect before him of a northern winter.
Passports.—I should recommend to persons going there to take passports from the Secretary of State's office. It is not absolutely necessary; but if one wishes to visit St. Thomas, or go to any other island, it will save some expense and the trouble of taking a new passport from the police office. At West End the very obliging Judge Anderson, master of the police, will take his dollar and endorse an American passport, he must take out a Danish one, and pay two and a half dollars to go to St. Thomas, and on leaving the island for a foreign port, about ten. At Bass End (Bassin.) there is not quite so much respect for the powers at Washington.
Frequently persons are inclined to visit other islands, either to the windward, by the steamers from St. Thomas, or the Spanish islands of Porto Rico and Cuba, on the way home. Passports may then become matters of more urgent necessity.
Money.—Letters of credit will enable persons to provide themselves with cash at St. Croix:—but in the trade with St. Croix our merchants are obliged to make the greater part of their purchases with cash; and bills on New York are at a considerable discount—last Spring not much less than ten per cent. American half dollars are perfectly current there, as are all the silver coins in use among us, as large as a quarter.
Clothing.—The weather at St. Croix is uniform, and as warm as our ordinary Summer weather; and a person in health may wear such clothes as he does here in summer: but the continued warmth opens the pores—to use a common way of speaking—and in the open West India houses it is somewhat difficult to avoid draughts. Thin flannels should therefore be worn next the skin, and the upper garments, while they should not be so thick and heavy as to heat a person, should afford a pretty good defence against sudden changes. Gentlemen on the island wear very commonly thin pantaloons, but almost always cloth coats. A linen jacket is, however, sometimes comfortable, and a frock coat of thin cassimere or merino, would be a very suitable garment for common use.—
Hair stocks are the most proper covering for the neck. Gentlemen are sometimes advised there to wear flannel about the neck, especially if they have bronchitis, in order to prevent sudden chills of the parts. The practice of so closely covering the throat is now condemned by our best physicians, and a common stock and flannel subject the neck to profuse perspiration—render the parts tender, and expose to colds.—
It is safer to discard the flannel, and leave the neck as free as may be. In a climate so uniformly warm, a northerner is liable to get into a profuse perspiration and violent heats, upon using any vigorous exercise, and these are unsafe. They will lead to colds, if they are not followed by more serious consequences. He will be frequently admonished, as I often was, while walking at my ordinary rate, not to walk too fast. These observations may serve in some manner to guide the invalid, and I am induced to touch upon this topic, because I received quite wrong impressions of what I should want, from some who had lived there in sound health.
Under this topic let me just add, that colored spectacles—green or grey—will be quite useful to defend the eyes against the excessive whiteness of the streets at the west end of the Island.
Means of Exercise.—Ponies may be hired for twelve to sixteen dollars a month, for the saddle. For this they are kept, and brought to the door at such hours as the rider chooses. Some of them are spirited and remarkably easy gaited animals. Horses and gigs, and other carriages may be hired by the month, at rates which are not very extravagant. There are now carriages in considerable number and variety upon the island, which temporary residents can hire, for those which are carried out by invalids, are always sold there when they leave the island.
The number of invalids resorting to St. Croix appears to be increasing, and it would be doubtful, whether one, who should go late to this island, would at once find a carriage to suit him. Changes however are often taking place.
Ponies may be had in abundance and it is quite unnecessary for those who wish for horse back exercise only. to take horses with them. It costs to carry a horse out, and to get him through the customs, about $100—it costs $16 a month for his keeping, while there, (i. e. the price at which a good pony may be hired.) and when his owner leaves the island, he must sell him for about his cost in New York.
Boarding Houses.—When I approached St. Croix last winter, I was apprehensive, that I should find it difficult to get good accommodations. The same apprehension may be felt, as it has been by others. There is no reason for it. Many more might have been accommodated than were there last winter, and I was told before I left the Island, that many more houses would be open this coming winter. The price of board last winter was $10. It was supposed that some houses would be opened at lower rates.
The boarding houses last winter at West End were—Mrs. Boyle's. Mrs. Codwise's. Mrs. Rogers's, Mr. Heyliger's. Mr. Westcot's. Miss Rogers's—and at the beautiful estate, Prosperity, Mrs, Van Brakle's. about half a mile north of the town. and at the estate, Stony Ground, Mrs. Smith's a mile south.
At Bass-End (Bassin) Mrs. Hansen's. Mrs. Hans Cardan's— Miss Gilbert's. in the town. and at a short distance from the town Mr. Stringham's. at the estate called Richmond. The accommodations, the attention and the fare, at all of them, I believe. are excellent.
Medical Advice.—It will of course be interesting to the invalid to know, that he can have excellent medical advice. There are many physicians there, who have passed through the schools of Edinburgh and Copenhagen, and are well worthy of confidence. I cannot forbear mentioning one who is remarkable, though not for that only, as being the oldest physician in the West Indies. I refer to Dr. Stedman of West-End. He has practiced in the Islands more than fifty years, and still possesses uncommon vigor and vivacity, both intellectual and physical. We were indebted to him for much good professional advice, and for enlivening many of our evenings with his brilliant conversation, and curious anecdotes of the olden times, both of his native country, Scotland, and his adopted one, St. Croix. He was the pupil of Cullen. and the fellow student at Edinburgh with McIntosh. the late Dr. Mitchell, of your city and many others, whose names have since been well known.
Society.—The inhabitants are very hospitable, and are disposed to be attentive to strangers.— Since the Island has become so much a place of resort, it is obvious that they cannot each be attentive to every body, and letters of introduction are more necessary to insure their acquaintance and attention, than formerly. Proper introductions will secure the kindest attentions —sometimes almost more than one, who has much delicacy on such points, feeling that he probably will never be able to repay them, will be willing to receive. But this feeling is often greatly relieved by the very generous pleasure too apparent to be mistaken, with which they are rendered. It is proper to remark here, that his excellency the governor general is disposed to treat strangers with great courtesy, and that he is gratified by an early call Strangers may be introduced to him at the government house. by gentlemen of the island.
Letters from Home.—Intercourse with N. York direct, and by the way of St. Thomas. is very frequent. Letters may be sent and received as often as once in ten days or a fortnight—often more frequently; and the merchants of the island, and of St. Thomas, are very obliging in receiving and forwarding letters and packages.
I believe, Messrs. Editors, that the above remarks contain answers to the most important enquiries which valetudinarians going to the West Indies would wish to make.
I will add, however, that the language spoken is English; and that there is at each end of the island an English church.
I use my former signature for the last time. and hope no much longer to be
VALETUDINARIUS.
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St. Croix, West Indies
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Last Winter
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The writer provides practical advice for invalids traveling to St. Croix for health recovery, covering climate benefits, passports, money, clothing, exercise options, boarding houses, medical care, society, and communication, based on personal experience.