Alexandria Gazette & Advertiser

Philadelphia, July 6.
FRANKLIN 74.
The following is the concluding extract of a letter from a young gentleman on board this ship, dated Valparaiso, March 23, 1822.
"Two days brought us to Valparaiso. From the glowing descriptions which I had previously both read and heard, I expected to find it in every respect superior to Rio, how great then was my disappointment when first I visited the Chilian town; its situation is on a flat sandy beach, scarce raised above the level of the sea, and encompassed with mountains; the houses (but few raising above one story) being built of the country brick, and roofed with tiles of the same, give to the whole a dark and dreary appearance, to which the ill dressed, savage looking mortals who compose the mass of society, contribute their share: droves of mules laden with the produce of the surrounding country, raise continual clouds of sand, and the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun render the town truly disagreeable.
The neighboring mountains instead of presenting noble views like those around Rio and at Juan Fernandez, appear like one barren heap: but nature in a lavish moment, determined partly to recompense the inhabitants, by forming one spot which should serve as a retreat from the heat, bustle and noise of the city. With this view, she fixed upon a spot delightful as the moon. and with a bounteous hand, heaped her treasures upon it, and the Garden of Eden appeared, formerly the favorite resort of Lady Cochrane, now of the still more beauteous and accomplished Mrs. Stewart.—This spot seems to be the masterpiece of nature in the beautiful; after a sight of it, the works of art appear poor and insipid; but as no adequate idea of it can be formed without actually visiting it, I shall not attempt a description.
This is the land of religious parade. Forts, fountains, cathedrals, and public buildings are decorated with the images of saints, virgins, and crosses; the streets are thronged with monks, priests, and devotees, from the fat friar, with his goodly round belly and princely clothing, mounted on his ambling nag, and attended by his retinue, to the poor half starved, half clothed mendicant, who with cap in hand, leaning his exhausted form upon his cross, infests every corner begging charity from each passenger. and every square boasts its cathedral, but these descendants of Old Spain are totally destitute of that pride, austerity and jealousy which have ever been considered as characteristics of the nation: and the women of that sweet modesty and chaste reserve which should ever accompany their sex—without which beauty loses half its charms, and love is robbed of all her powers.
The men, indolent in their nature, rise from their couches but half refreshed from the debaucheries of the preceding night, and hie forth to pursue either their business or pastime as inclination dictates. The women, free as air, rove from town to country, from country to town, no jealous veil overshades their charms, no wary matron watches or directs their steps, the steady gaze of impudence causes not the blush of modesty to mantle their cheeks, but with bold and vulgar assurance they meet more than midway: yet while I thus describe the bulk, let me pay a just tribute to the chosen few—in beauty, politeness and accomplishments they vie with my fair Country women—may their inclination and demeanor ever be as ample as they now are. and may Americans ever be deserving of their kindness."