Bisbee Daily Review

Page six

WINTER FASHIONS.

Coats Have Cape Effects—Millinery Shapes and Styles.

Nearly all the coats are made with a cape effect on the shoulders, which gives an appearance of smallness to the waist. This cape effect is ever seen on coats belonging to walking costumes, although in this sort of costume it is sometimes omitted.

The French sailor, or toque, made entirely of feathers, is very smart with tailor made suit. The prettiest colors are cardinal red and a deep iridescent green.

Rough brown beaver-like fabrics are trimmed with strapped effects, which are very fetching.

A costume of this description recently seen was ankle length, and the coat was loosely belted in with a band of oriental embroidery consisting of different shades of brown. This embroidery trimmed both the skirt and the jacket. With this was worn a flat, furry brown hat trimmed with two birds, shaded in brown and green.

All white furry French sailors are more than ever to the fore and are pretty worn with gun metal gray black costumes.

Many of the new skirts are certainly extensively trimmed toward the base by means of ruches or tucks, with braiding in various designs and undulating bands appliqued on flounces of cloth are effective and in harmony with the sloping shoulder capes. These are founced or ruched round the border and invariably make a dip toward the waist at the back.

The picture shows a white cloth costume trimmed with strappings put on like tucks.

JUDIC CHOLLET.

HANDSOME GOWNS.

Chiffon Dresses For Formal Occasions—Rich Appliques.

Gowns of chiffon for dressy occasions are very smart, and there is a new make of chiffon which will stand a good deal of wear.

It is very smart in brown shades trimmed with ecru or dyed lace to match, combined with a soft, tucked front and huge under sleeves.

Velvet bows figure largely on velling gowns, and they are combined with rosettes and puffings of chiffon.

Sometimes the huge chiffon undersleeves are tied in with velvet bows at the wrists.

Square applications of figured plain velvet are very smart around the lower edge of a loose sack coat or a full sun plaited skirt.

Heavy embroideries of wool and chenille are used to embellish white cloth tailor made gowns and in general costumes in pale colors.

Heavy knotted fringe is still all the rage as a trimming for dressy coats and gowns.

As fashions are of the early Victorian period the fabrics of that era are revived, and we can hardly imagine an early Victorian frock without its accompaniment of taffeta ruches and velvet spots. Indeed we gladly welcome such a revival, for taffeta, let me tell you, is a worthy fabric for what may be termed the "best" frock, either for day or evening. It is substantial and its smartness undeniable, and we should be very pleased to see it enjoying a foremost place on fashion's list, giving place only, as the colder weather advances, to chiffon velours, the new fur plushes and the abnormally thick fabrics of the zibeline type.

The cut shows a crepe de chine waist trimmed with fine valenciennes insertion.

JUDIC CHOLLET.

Bold outlines, picturesque details of form and elaboration in trimmings serve to make luxury more luxurious in furs. And, not content with one beautiful kind of pelt in a garment, fashion decrees that it shall be lined with another almost equally beautiful, and furs are to outrival every other kind of winter outdoor garment.

As to shape, coats are worn long, three-quarters or short, according to taste and purse. Boilers take the greatest variety of smart forms. Some are belted in, with a stole collar and big, full sleeves. Others seem to be a kind of double cape arrangement; others, still, boast a stylish little basque. Most of them, as well as the short sack coats, are made with big revers or a contrasting fur.

Variety marks the stole of the season, but the pelerine stole is one of the most beautiful of all styles. It is fitted on the shoulders in cape fashion and tapers in at the waist or falls in long, wide ends to the knee.

Of the latest inspiration is a fancy neck piece which can be either tied or worn as a plain straight stole. It is here represented in squirrel, with ermine tails.

The second cut shows a handsome sack coat, which is suitably made up in any one of many of the most fashionable furs and has a collar that can be worn either up or down.

Gliding gently over Russian sable lined with ermine (the genuine article) is Serge.

Monkey fur is seen in combination with ermine and miniver for fancy neck pieces.

The favorite walking costume will not be overloaded with gathers and plaitings this season.

There is a strong liking for fancy cloths, and at the same time plain cloths are much in demand.

Gowns of the autumn have a narrow galloon of black and white as a sort of finish to pelerines and sleeves.

Mole is the skin most talked of in novelty furs. To just what extent it may be carried is difficult to say.

Covert cloth has extended its range from a coating to a suiting and is eminently smart as a variation on tweeds, serges and cheviots.

Fringes have at last been accepted in the fashionable world, and they fill the long felt want for a pleasing finish to deep cape collars, fichus and sashes.

For smart street toilets boucle effects are particularly in evidence. They are shown in irregular and square patterns, with the raised knot or boucle of silk or a silky worsted.

The wearing of an empire scarf, picture hat or a gown characterized by drooping lines is a matter of art, and one will be wise to follow more conventional styles if the proper effect cannot be achieved.