The Cheyenne Daily Leader

Cheyenne Daily Leader

Wyoming as It Is

BY N. A. BAKER, Editor of Cheyenne Leader.

It was in the summer of 1867 that the building of the transcontinental railway brought into prominent attention that part of the domain of the United States now known as the Territory of Wyoming. Previous to that date, the only occupation of the country by white persons was by United States troops, at the remotely scattered posts of Forts Laramie, Fetterman, Sanders and Bridger. The country had been traveled over by traders and trappers, and by the California and Salt Lake migration, but none had thought it worth their time and trouble to settle in its valleys, or prospect for mineral wealth within its limits. Occupations immediately dependent upon the construction and maintenance of the Union Pacific railroad, have necessitated the presence of a population which has gradually discovered, one after another, the mineral deposits of Wyoming, and demonstrated to a considerable degree their value and extent. Enough is known already to warrant the belief that the advantages of climate, soil, and mineral possessions of Wyoming are such as will certainly attract to her borders within the next decade a population of hundreds of thousands of people.

Much is yet to be done towards establishing correct notions regarding the Territory in the minds of the generality of eastern readers. Travelers through Wyoming, seeing all her poorest lands and little of the better, are accustomed to regard the country as a dreary region of barren wastes, having little to commend it as homes of an intelligent people. It is to dissipate whatever of error may have obtained foothold in this way, and to circulate, generally more accurate and reliable information concerning Wyoming that this Sketch is written. A residence of four years in this part of the country, and nearly twelve years in the far west, and a careful observation of its climate, topography and peculiarities of the country spoken of, will perhaps entitle the remarks of the writer to some considerable degree of credence.

Wyoming occupies an area of eight degrees in length east and west, by four degrees in width north and south, lying between the 104th and 112th meridians of longitude, and the 41st and 45th parallels of latitude, being about 100,000 square miles, which is from two to three times as large as some of the medium sized eastern states. Its territorial government was instituted by congressional enactment, made July 25, 1868; it was not, however, until the succeeding year that a regular government was fully in operation, and a legislature and other officers duly selected in conformity with law.

The general appearance of the southern half of Wyoming is that of an elevated and broken plain, having an average elevation of five or six thousand feet above sea level. The greatest elevations in this plain, as well as the most marked depressions are found in the Southwestern part of the Territory. Geologists find numerous evidences in this part of the Territory of the former existence of numerous fresh water lakes, which have been drained by the upheaval of this section. The Laramie, North Platte and Green rivers, and their tributaries, drain this part of the Territory, their waters flowing in a southern and eastern direction from the Territory. Indeed, from the central part of Wyoming, a most complete water-shed is formed, throwing the streams in each of the four directions of the compass. The northern half of the Territory, sloping to the north and east, is drained by the Yellowstone, Big Horn, Powder Tongue and Wind rivers, and lesser tributaries. The general elevation of the northern portions of Wyoming is about three thousand feet above the sea, which constitutes it the most desirable portion of the Territory for agricultural operations.

CLIMATE.

The climate of Wyoming is one of the finest and most salubrious in the world. The air is of such extraordinary purity, and so free from the damp and miasmatic gases of the atmosphere of other localities, as to exert a bracing and invigorating effect upon the human system, and breathing it imparts a zest to the life of a person which contributes much to the pleasure of existence. So clear is the air that the very sunlight of heaven is all the brighter for it, and its lightness, together with its unusual purity, guarantees persons exemption from many of the diseases of more damp climates. Residence here for a time cures consumptives if not too far in the power of their fatal disease; worst cases are usually aggravated and hastened to a fatal termination by residing in such a bracing atmosphere.

There is not only a very light fall of rain in summer, but an equally unimportant snow fall in winter, which is explained by the great distance to large bodies of water which might be drawn from in the form of clouds and by evaporation. This is, usually, no inconvenience, as artificial irrigation being practiced in growing of crops.

AGRICULTURE.

The surface of the soil, owing to the dry winds which pass over it, leaving no trace of moisture, appears devoid of richness or arable qualities. But no greater mistake is made than to suppose these soils sterile. Where irrigation is practicable, the poorest looking even, readily grows wheat, oats and barley, and potatoes, turnips, beets, cabbage, etc. This soil is not of the rich, mucky look of that of Iowa or Illinois, but it is fully equal to that of those States in strong and essential elements of plant nourishment. The writer has known personally of the following yields: wheat, 40 bushels to the acre; oats, 30; potatoes, 400; cabbage 20 lbs. each; potatoes 300 lbs; beets and other vegetables in proportion, and all of excellent quality.

GRAZING.

The preeminent advantage Wyoming possesses is the ease with which fine stock can be raised. So mild are our winters that herds require but little or no provision in the way of fodder supply. Even in time of storms, there are enough sheltered places where stock can find grass enough to subsist upon until the rigor of the storm has passed. Cattle in almost any part of the Territory, may be turned out poor, and in mid-winter, and will fatten before spring. The dry, sun-cured, and peculiarly nutritious grasses of the plains, retain all their fattening qualities, after they are apparently dead. No rains fall on them to leach out their vitality, and herein appears the whole explanation of their wonderful nutritious properties. For sheep and cattle Wyoming is the natural pasture ground of America. There are several stock dealers in Cheyenne and Laramie cities, whose net profits from sales of beef cattle for the past year have reached from ten to twenty thousand dollars. And the field is open and promises equal remuneration for hundreds of dealers more.

MINERALS.

The mineral development of Wyoming may be justly said to be in its infancy. Nearly all the useful minerals and the precious metals are found in greater or less profusion. Gold, silver, copper, quicksilver, lead, iron, coal, oil, gypsum and asphaltum abound in many places. The gold mines of Sweetwater district, and those of the Medicine Bow Mountains and of the Big Horn Mountains are in reality just beginning to yield up their wealth. But the greatest mineral interest is found in the coal and iron deposits. The area of an extent and magnitude surpassing any other similar known area on the globe. The coal measures of Wyoming cover a space of nearly 100,000 square miles, extending along the line of the railroad for a distance of some 300 miles, from the location and the excellent quality of coal they contain, these fields possess a prospective importance only second to that of the great anthracite deposits of central Pennsylvania. The coal is a better article, ton for ton, than Lehigh coal for making steam, for domestic use, for locomotives and for gas manufacture, because it has less waste, ash and cinder, and burns more freely, with less trouble kindling.

It has been tried by the Union Pacific Company in their cupolas at hot blast metal-melting cast iron, and found to answer the purpose better than anthracite, adding to the fineness of grain and the toughness of the iron. The utility of these vast coal deposits becomes strikingly apparent when it is known that masses of excellent iron ore also exist in close proximity to the coal. This must make this country the seat of a great iron manufacturing interest in future years. With her wealth of other minerals, it is hardly too bold an assertion to state that Wyoming is the richest in undeveloped wealth of all the Territories.

POPULATION.

As yet no settlements of note have been made by white people, except immediately along the line of the Union Pacific, and in the vicinity of the Sweetwater mines. The total population by the census of 1870 was about ten thousand persons. The growth of the Territory during the past two years has been less rapid than before that time, but of a more healthy character. While the rougher and less desirable class of people, comprising the gamblers, roughs, and rascals of community have floated off to more lucrative fields, their places have been filled by families of business men, tradesmen and mechanics, and society in nearly all parts of the Territory presents an air of permanence, and people seem more intent on surrounding themselves with those comforts of home, the presence of which betokens most surely the intention to stay.

TOWNS.

Cheyenne, the political and commercial center of the Territory, is situated in the valley of Crow Creek and at the eastern base of the Black Hills distant about 500 miles from Omaha, and the same distance east of Salt Lake City. It was located in 1867, and contains at the present time about 2,500 inhabitants. It derives its importance from being a distributing center and supply depot for the trade of Wyoming, portion of Colorado, and eventually part of Montana. It is the point whence supplies are distributed to a number of the largest military posts in the country, and to a number of mining districts north, south and west. The junction of two lines of railway is here, and another line has been organized under the name of the Cheyenne, Iron Mountain and Deadwood railroad. The last named line is to extend via Forts Fetterman, Reno and Phil Kearney along the eastern base of the Big Horn Mountains to the Yellowstone river, and to Bozeman and Helena, Montana, finally intersecting the Northern Pacific. The route from Cheyenne is highly practicable, being through a country valuable in minerals, timber and agricultural lands. Cheyenne contains a thrifty and enterprising class of people in fact the very embodiment of western pluck and go-ahead-itiveness. The Cheyenne Iron Mountain is undoubtedly a source from whence much importance is to be derived for this place. This iron is found in immense masses just north of the city, in hills a mile long and of several hundred feet in width and height. The ore is stratified, varying from one foot to many feet in thickness, and is of a heavy, black and smooth character of rock and with a grain almost like cast iron itself. Analysis of this ore gives nearly eighty per cent pure metallic iron of extraordinary fine quality. This ore is sufficient in quantity to supply the world for ages to come. Where coal from the west, and iron from this remarkable mountain is brought to Cheyenne for manufacture, then will begin to be realized the reasonable expectations which have been indulged in, concerning the commercial importance of this city.

Schools and churches are established and some very orderly and well regulated than in many western places of even older establishment. There are five church edifices, the Congregational, Presbyterian, Episcopal, Methodist, and Catholic. The city is watered by a ditch from Crow Creek, from whence smaller branches run along the sidewalks, for the irrigation of trees and shrubbery, which will soon make the city a place of surpassing beauty, an Oasis upon the great naked plains.

Laramie City is a beautiful town of 1,500 inhabitants, and situated at the western base of the Black Hills, on the Laramie Plains and near the river of that name. It is in the midst of one of the finest valleys for stock grazing to be found anywhere in the world, and the plain around the city is dotted over with hundreds of herds, both in summer and winter. The cattle trade, and the lumber business of Laramie, will constitute its chief commercial importance. It has four churches and a graded educational institution, known as the Wyoming University.

West of Laramie the chief points are Carbonville, the seat of a great coal mining interest. Rawlins and Bitter Creek are both prominent railway points, and derive some importance from mines situated in near proximity. Hallville, Rock Springs, and Evanston are noted for the vast quantities of excellent coal mined there. The total product of the several mines is about 1,500 tons daily, which is consumed on the several Pacific railroads, and in San Francisco, Salt Lake, Denver, Omaha, and Cheyenne. The population of these coal mining towns will aggregate about three thousand persons.

The remaining towns of note in Wyoming lie north of the railroad, in the western part of the Territory, and in the Sweetwater gold region. They are South Pass, Atlantic and Hamilton cities, and have a population of about two thousand in all. These three places are certainly destined to grow much in size and importance, as they are situated in the midst of what is now fully conceded to be a rich mining country.

GOVERNMENT LANDS.

Surveys have been made of those portions of the public domain lying in the southeastern portion of Wyoming and nearest the oldest settled parts. Lands are open to settlement by pre-emption or homestead occupation, under existing government laws. By pre-emption a settler may take 160 acres of land or less, at the rate of $1.25 per acre, or as much less as the discount at which warrants may be obtained for cash. A homestead may be taken, at no more expense and trouble than the fees for entering, and a residence of five years to acquire homestead title. The most desirable portions of the Territory now open to occupation, and the easiest reached by the immigrant, are north and west of Cheyenne. They are finely watered, and timber and stone are abundant, within easy reach. The altitude of these lands is from one to two thousand feet less than that of Cheyenne, and with a correspondingly milder and more desirable climate.

COLONIES.

The most feasible and desirable mode of settlement of lands in this part of the country, is by associations of settlers organized into companies or colonies. In this manner not only are lower rates of transportation from the east for goods and families obtained, but lands are bought to better advantage, and provision for irrigation made more easily and more extensively. This is destined to be the first means of bringing into general attention the desirable features of this country, and causing settlements to be made. It is the early comers who will have the hardships to endure, it is they who will pave the way for others. It is, however, the first settlers that will make the money with the greatest rapidity, after those difficulties shall have been overcome and the country finally opened up.

THE GREAT QUESTION.

The physical aspect of the country comprising Wyoming Territory, is so strangely different from all other occupied portions of the globe, as to excite at first the universal inquiry, "what is the destiny of this country, and will it ever be settled up and occupied by a thriving population; what will be the leading employments and industries of its people?" The answer can readily be derived, and with much correctness, by weighing the relative advantages and disadvantages as compared with other parts of America, ever remembering that we live in a great and growing nation, whose population is continually expanding, and creating demands for new homes, and more standing room for many millions more of people than we now have. First of all, the great primary advantage in Wyoming is its healthfulness of climate. The fact is so well established and now so generally admitted as to require no special proof. The testimony of all who have sojourned here for any length of time, is unanimous in acknowledging this truth. And herein, we conceive, is found the most potent influence which affects human happiness, and human enjoyment of life. Let a person feel that buoyancy of spirits, that lightness of heart which comes alone from a healthful system, from a body through which the rich, pure, strong blood of health, courses unimpeded by the sloughs of disease, and what works, what achievements are not possible? Human energy is stronger, human ideas larger, and all progress greater, under such conditions. Works of art, institutions of learning, the highest excellence in those things which constitute the greatest enlightenment in mankind, certainly find their most congenial home where the physical health of man is most complete. The advantage of healthfulness, we therefore give a prominent place in our argument.

It is true that the presence of trees, flowers and lawns are not yet here to please the eye. Nor have we the well tilled farms and beautiful waving fields of grain which are so pleasant to behold. These are the works of time, and require years of labor to establish. They will as certainly come as that the sun shines, and in suitable time. The clear waters of a thousand mountain streams, serving the will of the cultivator, are to irrigate our valleys and hillsides, making the desert indeed to "blossom as the rose." By this irrigation nearly all crops grown in similar latitudes elsewhere, will be successfully raised in Wyoming, and thus eventually eradicate the idea of the country being unfit for agriculture.

The chief importance however is placed upon our mineral and pastoral resources. The sweet grasses of this region will give support, in summer and winter, to many thousand cattle, horses and sheep, the trade in which constituting a business which is perhaps the most certainly lucrative, to persons of large or small means, of any avocation which can be entered upon anywhere. The minerals are in such profusion that but few years must elapse ere Wyoming takes rank among the wealthiest States of the Union. Fully and firmly believing in the realization of a prosperous future for the Territory, it is a matter of concern with its people that the country be made as widely known, and as correctly understood abroad as its merits deserve.