The Ladies' Garland

THE TRAVELLER.

Extract of a letter from a young American gentleman in Algiers, to his friend in Washington.

To those who have visited the classic soil of Greece or Italy, Gibraltar might not present engaging associations—to me, who had only approached antiquity through books, this citadel was peculiarly interesting. I stood upon the apex of this mount, and imagined Genseric and his Vandals passing over into Africa, when, as Milton says of the populous North,

"Her barbarous sons
came like a deluge on the South and spread
Beneath Gibraltar to the Lybian sands."

It was here, also, that the Moors under Tarik, from whom the rock of Gibraltar takes its name, first landed for the conquest of Spain. The dominion of the Moors in that country for eight centuries, distinguished as it was by the cultivation of science, and the arts of peace, presents a painful contrast to its present condition under an imbecile Legitimate. Were I to pursue the historic recollections of this place, I should be carried back to Hercules; for Gibraltar and the opposite promontory in Africa, were called the pillars of Hercules. He is said to have opened this passage for the waters of the Mediterranean, by an effort of his own arm. Mr. Jefferson supposes a similar rupture to have discharged the waters in the valley of the Shenandoah; but unfortunately his countrymen cannot credit the Herculean process, or any mythologic agency.

A castle, built in the 5th century is still standing at Gibraltar, and is a fine specimen of the Moresco. This rock was thus early occupied as a point d'appui, and its conquerors, in modern times, have appreciated its importance, by rendering it perfectly impregnable.

The present Governor of the garrison is John, Earl of Chatham, the eldest son of our Chatham: and I should be pleased to say, that, with the title, he inherits the virtues and talents of his illustrious progenitor. It is probable, however, that the distinction of the son will rest on that "great and celebrated name," as Burke speaks of the first Chatham; the eloquent statesman whose genius will ever be admired, and his memory venerated by Americans. Lord John is said to have dissipated the pension of 40,000l, granted to the Earldom by Parliament. His present salary is £33,000.

I had the pleasure while at Gibraltar, of seeing the renowned Marquis of Hastings. He landed there on his way to Malta, of which island and garrison he is governor. As the youthful Lord Rawdon, his name is associated with some of the most important operations and prominent events of our Revolution. He was generous and chivalric; but he sustains the odium of Col. Hayne's execution. His defence of that measure in a letter to Gen. Lee, is published in the "Campaign of 1781," by the accomplished son of that distinguished patriot. As Earl of Moira, he was Governor General of India. His great pecuniary embarrassments are understood to have been caused by his philanthropy towards the French emigres, during their revolution. General La Fayette and he perhaps are of the same age; and they were combatants on the same arena; yet how different their fame with posterity! The morally sublime spectacle of La Fayette's visit to our happy country, proves that whoever will attract the admiration and secure the esteem of humanity, must not contend against its dearest rights.

After a stay of four days at Gibraltar, we sailed for Mahon, a port in the Island of Minorca, belonging to Spain. The United States' Squadron had wintered there, and was prepared to sail when we arrived. Commodore Rodgers was kind in his reception, and furnished me a conveyance to this place in the Ontario. The squadron returned from Gibraltar to this place on the 23d of May, and anchored. During their stay of two days, the Commodore proposed to visit the Bashaw, but, as he declined receiving him at the hour requested, he determined to leave without paying that respect. The squadron sailed hence to the Levant. As the line of battle ships are named from the States, the members of our Confederacy will be familiarly known in this distant sea. I conceive it of political importance; these people know nothing of statistics; but if they are told that this tremendous engine of power represents one State, they will be able to infer the combined strength of the Union—whose enemies must crumble under its blows, or fuse in its lightnings.

When I first landed at Algiers, I regarded myself as an exile—in a warmer country, however, than Siberia;—I now esteem this residence as a philosophic retirement. I certainly have facilities for general improvement, which, if I use, I may become an intelligent Barbary-man. Society is confined exclusively to the families of European Consuls, of which there are eight. Mr. Shaler is the only Consul residing in town, the others having country houses. An American, accustomed to the spacious, cleanly streets and fine houses of our towns, cannot conceive of the disgusting aspect of Algiers. The streets will scarcely allow two persons to pass abreast, on horseback, and they are lined with receptacles for filth and offal, one of which is attached to each house. Then you meet mangy dogs and cats, and squalid beggars, and every thing offensive to delicate organs.

Were it not for the frank hospitality of the Consular families in the country, where I spend two or three evenings of the week, I would be unable to endure a town residence. Algiers is an exact miniature of Constantinople, and whatever Lady M. W. Montague has said of that city is true of this, in proportion to the wealth of its inhabitants. I understand the same Oriental luxury prevails. I perceive that the ladies are not permitted to leave their houses, and that those disreputable ones, who are seen in the streets, have their faces and heads covered with a thick veil, called the haik, leaving a small aperture for the eyes. The despotism of the Turkish Government is exercised in families over the gentler part of creation.