Gazette Of The United States

FROM THE NEW-YORK DAILY ADVERTISER.

ADVICE TO COUNTRY TAVERN KEEPERS.

As a great deal of custom is necessary to make good markets and good inns, and as there is but little travelling, except on public roads, the question is, how shall travellers on private roads, where there is but little travelling, make provision for entertaining gentlemen well, without suffering great losses. I speak not of provision for Country people, for these are willing to take cider and pot-luck, or the common fare of the taverner's own family: but I speak of provision for people who have been accustomed to a city life and better cookery and liquors. It appears to me that provision for the latter may be made, without needless waste.

You cannot, for example, buy a pipe of Madeira wine of the first quality—but you can keep a gallon or two for many months, and when gentlemen find a glass of good wine in the country, they are willing to give a good price for it. But I would recommend it to you to be more careful in the choice of your wine. Few of you are judges of wine; and when you purchase, the wine sellers turn you off with any adulterated mixture they please. After a great number of experiments, I can safely declare, that nine times out of ten, the wine I have called for in Country Taverns has been a mixture of Cider, Molasses, and a little real wine; or brandy and wine, and not unfrequently with a strong tincture of Sugar of lead. Such mixtures pass, in the country, for Malaga, or other sweet wine. To avoid impositions in purchasing wine, get some gentleman who has always been used to wine to choose it for you, and keep a little of the best quality for such passengers as are willing to pay for it.

With respect to spirits, the same advice is necessary; but of the quality of spirits you are better judges, and therefore less liable to imposition. Keep also a little of the best kind of teas, as Hyson, Gunpowder, or Souchong; and good loaf Sugar. A small quantity of each will serve you for perhaps five or six months. Most passengers will not want these articles; they will not be able or willing to pay for them, but a few will wish for them, because they have always been accustomed to them: and you must make a difference of price between a breakfast or supper of Bohea tea and fried pork, and one of hyson tea and loaf sugar.

With respect to meat, there is no difficulty, if you will have a little foresight. You cannot indeed have fresh meat every day, and gentlemen do not like boiled pork and cabbage, cooked and dished together. But if you will every winter provide a number of good hams and beef's tongues, you may, in the warmest weather, spread a table that no gentleman will find fault with.

In cooking take a word of advice. Use the Gridiron instead of the Frying pan. Do not roast or broil meat until it is as dry and tough as sole-leather. Meat slightly done, is both more palatable and more healthy. Do not boil meat and vegetables together, unless you put the vegetables in a bag. Do not bring upon table different kinds of meat in the same dish; nor meat and vegetables in the same dish. Let each be brought on in a separate dish. Do not kill a fowl and put it warm over the fire. A fowl is tough and good for nothing, unless it has been killed 24, or at least 12 hours. When you bring on liquors, endeavor to give every one a separate glass. If you have not enough in the house, you will be excused; but gentlemen do like not that all the company should drink out of the same glass.

Endeavor to accommodate different companies with different rooms. Nothing is more disagreeable than to crowd a number of strangers into the same room; or to oblige travellers to sit down with grog drinkers in the bar room; furnish yourselves if possible with beds enough to give every lodger one to himself. It is a monstrous indecent, as well as unsafe practice for persons, perhaps total strangers, to sleep in the same bed. It is an affront to a man to request it. And a word to you about keeping your beds clean: Give every decent man a decent bed. Every one ought to have clean fresh sheets—it is an imposition to ask a man to lay on sheets, that have before been slept in by you know not who; you say, it is a great trouble; very well, then make your lodgers pay for the trouble. Those who expect clean beds are willing to pay for them. In the hot months, take special care that the beds are not infested with bugs. This is an article of advice very necessary for many of you. It is a filthy infamous negligence which suffers these animals to trouble your lodgers. Nothing is more offensive to travellers, and nothing does more toward injuring the reputation of a tavern.

I trust you will take these hints in good part; for they are meant for your benefit, as well as for those who travel.

I am, your friend
P.Q.