The Holly Chieftain

PLAN TO SELECT GARMENTS THAT ARE MOST SUITABLE FOR WOMEN

Figure on left is garbed in simple blouse and skirt. These may be adapted to any figure and with slight changes in sleeve, collar and fullness of skirt are always in good style. The design in the middle is for a tall, slender woman; the costume is divided into three distinct parts to lessen the apparent height, and horizontal tucks are used to suggest width. The design on the right is for the stout woman; the long straight lines suggest height and the surplice front and curve of the side panel tend to decrease the apparent breadth of the figure.

(Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture.)

Women's clothing requires more careful thought than that for men and children. The intermediate type of figure is not difficult to clothe attractively, but the more extreme types, the slender and the stout, need careful attention. Once a woman has decided on the type of design which suits her best, she should choose clothing which in general lines is always the same. Monotony can be avoided by using different materials and trimmings. Such garments may usually be kept in good style by slight changes in sleeves, collar and fullness of the skirt.

For very tall, slight people, designs should be chosen that suggest roundness and normal height. Soft, full blouses, full skirts, and draped effects are good; if the height seems too great, horizontal lines brought into the costume by means of flounces, bands and tucks will tend to reduce it. Plaids and figured materials with large areas of design are admissible on a slight, tall figure; also soft, deep-pile stuffs for coats, and bright, shimmery, lustrous materials are good.

Design for Stout Figure.

For the stout figure, designs could be chosen that suggest height and slenderness. Loose, easy-fitting garments with straight, unbroken lines suggest height. Lines that carry the eye to the center of the figure will diminish its breadth. No lines should carry directly across the figure, for they seem to lessen the height and increase the breadth of the figure. Separate waists and skirts, unless the waist is of the same color as the skirt or is so adjusted as to fall over the skirt, will tend to broaden the figure and diminish the height. A surplice line for the opening of the waist is good; narrow girdles draped loosely about the figure, crossed in the back and brought to the front again with one end looped over the other, suggest height. The stout woman should choose soft, nonlustrous materials, such as crepe de chine, crepe georgette, serge, gabardine, voile and batiste. Plaids and large-figured materials are out of the question and stripes should be cautiously chosen. Colors should be avoided that make the lines of the figure stand out prominently, clothing experts in the United States Department of Agriculture affirm in a recent bulletin on selection and care of clothing. Taupe, gray and dark blue are usually best in this respect, but all dull, dark colors are safer than light or bright ones.

Suit Colors to Wearer.

Colors should be carefully chosen not only in relation to the figure but in reference to the complexion, color of the hair and eyes of the wearer as well. There is no general rule by which one can choose becoming colors. Therefore, one must rely on one's own taste, judgment and experience. In general, women with fresh, clear complexions find a greater range of becoming colors than others who have little color, but patient experimentation will discover those which are becoming to either type. It is safe to choose such colors as are in harmony with the color of the eyes, hair and complexion.

Dark blue is a universally becoming color. Taupe, dark blue, black and gray in which violet predominates are good colors to be used by the woman who is stout. Bright aggressive colors make the stout figure seem larger. Bright gay colors may be chosen for the young, slight girlish figure, but always with a thought to the general coloring.