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Atlanta, Fulton County, Georgia
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Anna Pearl Jordan, an American exchange teacher in England, shares a detailed account of her Christmas holiday travels from Switzerland through Italy, the French and Italian Rivieras, Monaco, and Paris, describing scenic views, historical sites like Milan Cathedral and Versailles, cultural experiences, and post-war recovery.
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Dear Ozeil,
I have spent such a wonderful holiday on the continent and thought you would like to share its goodness with me. You can cover a lot of territory moving from country to country in a matter of hours. It only takes one and a half hours to cross the Channel by steamer from England. Twenty-six American Exchange teachers took the trip I am about to share with you. The beginning was quite rough. Twenty-five of them were on the Cote D'Azur which crashed at Calais after being in a sand bar for 43 hours instead of the usual one and one half that it usually takes. No one got hurt. My school closed late so I'd had to travel to Switzerland alone. Upon arrival at Folkstone we were delayed one night and had to sleep on the Canterbury another channel steamer. Christmas Eve I spent in Interlaken, Switzerland and Christmas morning I arrived at Grindelwald.
After a nice breakfast we went down into the town. It was really beautiful. Everything was covered with snow and all the persons around were dressed for skiing, sleigh riding and ice skating. We stopped at Hotel Belvedere on the bottom of several mountains, three of which are Schiedegg, Jungfrau and Wetterhorn. The view from my room was just like scenes we see on cards. Snow covered peaks, Swiss chalets all along the mountain sides.
One need not worry about fashions in Switzerland at Christmas, a ski suit, warm gloves and a ski cap will be enough. Boots and skis are available for a price and teachers are also on hand.
We rode up to Jungfrau and Schiedegg supposedly a 5,000 feet journey. On the train going up and down we were able to make slides of the chair lift, ski lift and also views of the glaciers.
Our afternoons were spent skiing, sleigh riding and visiting the small shops on the main street.
The food was delicious and prepared by French cooks. Their Christmas trees were young green trees and they used real candles on them, they would not burn.
MILAN, ITALY—We left Grindelwald about 8 a.m. and that evening we were in Milan, Italy. We passed through 36 tunnels en route to Milan, the longest of which was nine miles. It was called the Leechberg tunnel. We were met at the station by a Courier and carried immediately on a sightseeing tour of the city.
Our first stop was the world famed Milan Cathedral, externally it is decorated with 98 small Gothic towers and 2,000 statues. We went inside. There we saw almost an array of beauty too magnificent to describe. The windows, the chapels for all religious group meetings with an altar as the dividing line. It is decorated with the finest of metals and wood carvings.
The Cathedral Square is the great centre of movement of Milan, the greatest Monuments of the city are gathered here.
After riding through the exclusive shopping section of the city we were told we were going to Paris in Milan, we saw the "Arch of Peace" which is a replica of the "Arch of Triomphe" in Paris, this was a dedication to Napoleon and was inaugurated in 1938. To the right of this we saw a tower which was a small reproduction of the Eiffel Tower.
A ride through republic square you will be surrounded by modern buildings and beautiful flower beds. Milan possesses a number of modern skyscrapers. As you know it was badly bombed during the war.
One of the most antique churches in Milan is the Church of Saint Maria dell Grazie. It was constructed in the 15th century and was heavily bombed during the war. There remains on the wall the magnificent painting by Leonardo da Vinci of the last supper to the Apostles. The figures and characters seem to be real. Under normal circumstances one does not visit cemeteries on trips, but the monument cemetery in Milan is one worth visiting. It has three wings—one for Protestants, one for Catholics and one for Jews. It was built for the wealthy. The monuments over the lots or graves in some way tell of the work of the person. Most of them were beyond description but one of a farmer had a huge piece of marble like a piece of uneven land with the complete statue of a man plowing. Even the horse looks real. It really was like a museum instead of a cemetery.
A trip to Milan is not complete unless you visit La Scala, the opera. We were quite lucky to get seats and the show was really mer-
La Scala dates back to the 18th century and is the supreme temple of Lyric Art. On the inside there are four ranks of boxes and two galleries. It is like a picture to sit in a place which glitters like gold (with gilt) and the beautiful wine velvet trimmings, and covers. There is a magnificent chandelier in the centre.
We only had a short stay in Milan but it was a profitable and worthwhile visit and full of interest.
ITALIAN RIVIERA—COTE D'AZUR—FRENCH RIVIERA
Taking the scenic route from Milan to Nice, France, we went to Genoa and then along the Italian Riviera. By this time we needed to change our type of clothing because it was no longer a blanket of snow nor freezing weather, but just like summer with sunshine and fruit trees full of oranges, lemons and tangerines. Our fur-lined boots were no longer needed.
On French and English trains you can open the windows, and with this being possible there was a constant clicking of cameras and ohs!! and ahs!! about the unusual scenery. We saw grape orchards lined up hills, large cactus and palm trees. The houses were nice pastel shades with red brick colored roofs. Any picture you have ever seen of the Riviera could have been made anywhere along our route. In England when the train pulls into the station one is able to buy soft drinks and tea. In America they are usually the same but also with coffee, as we pulled into the stations carts normally had wine.
We passed Monaco, of which Monte Carlo is the principal city. In Nice, France we were quite near the Promenade and at night it was glorious walking along the waterfront and looking at the beautiful hotels and the Nice Casino which was an all white building with Christmas trees well decorated at each entrance.
From Nice we visited Grasse, we stopped at several little villages, saw various Roman ruins and beautiful flower gardens. The ride to Grasse, which was another one of those 5,000 ft. places reminded me of my ride through the smokies at home. We stopped at Gourdon and visited a small factory where they crystallized flower petals, roses violets and mimosa. They also glazed fruit. We were shown how they glaze the fruit. After this we had tea at a quaint shop, the streets were quite narrow and the women were walking around with bundles of twigs on their heads. They posed for us and were happy to do so.
At Grasse we were carried to a perfume factory and there we saw how perfume is made. We were told that flower petals are coated
with fat and turned each day for three months. Later the fat is made into soap. Grasse is quite close to Cannes.
MONACO—MONTE CARLO
En route to Monaco we stopped at La Turbie. Here we saw women washing clothes in a common fountain in the town. La Turbie noted for pottery. With a number of stops in this area we saw Roman ruins dating back to the 1st century, and a home belonging to the Vanderbilts near Monaco.
Monte Carlo is the principal city of Monaco which is one of the smallest countries. Their ruler is a Prince. We visited the Prince's Palace high above Monte Carlo and fortunately he arrived while we were there. The guards were dressed quite handsomely and were on duty as they are outside Buckingham Palace.
When in Monte Carlo we visited its world famed Casino and the various game rooms. As we were leaving we passed an American Navy base stationed at the Harbor. The U. S. flag and American type decorated trees were seen on the ships from a distance.
In Nice we visited the Chateau (and made pictures) of Nice. From there the view was beautiful. The open markets, Old Nice and every morning we went shopping. The clothes were simply superb, the nubby wool coats and suits, the chic dresses and beautiful shoes by Fath and Dior.
A suggestion to any of you who plan to come, French and English shoes are our problems even though they are beautiful they are also very wide.
From Nice we went to Paris for a few days. It was freezing when we arrived in Paris. I did not do so much sight seeing in Paris this time because as you remember this was my second trip. I did take the trip to Modern Paris which took in Place de la Concorde. Tuilleries Gardens looking ahead to Champs Elysées the Bastille Madeline, the Opera, Cafe Rue de l Paix, by the shops of the famous designers and the Arch of Triomphe.
We took an afternoon trip to Versailles. There was no furniture there. However we did see Marie Antoinette's Jewel case and the hall of mirrors, huge chandeliers and the King's bedroom—also various paintings on the walls and ceilings. Some of them took 7 years to paint and the artist had to lay flat on his back to paint them.
Also in Paris we visited the shops, had fun looking because most of us could not afford to buy the things we wanted. I took the night club trip, we visited all of the different type night clubs and ended up at Moulin Rouge. When I was in Paris before Hazel Scott was there.
After a few days in Paris we went back to London, where I spent a few days with two other exchange teachers. We saw the sights of London, ate food from different countries and went to the shows at night.
I hope you have enjoyed your little journey with me. I am sure it will bring memories of certain places you studied somewhere along the lines. In May we are to visit Stratford-on-Avon during Shakespeare season. Sir Lawrence and Lady Olivier are the stars this season. Before then I hope to carry you through Wales.
I am looking out of the window now over the town which is covered with a blanket of snow.
Sincerely yours,
ANNA PEARL JORDAN
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Letter to Editor Details
Author
Anna Pearl Jordan
Recipient
Ozeil
Main Argument
shares a personal account of her holiday travels across europe, highlighting scenic beauty, cultural sites, and experiences as an exchange teacher.
Notable Details